Pheriche
Two days a go we completed our third cycle of acclimatization. The team (now nine of us) have slept at camp three on the Lhotse Face and have descended to Pheriche to rest.
To recap, the first cycle consisted of climbing to around 5800m in the Ice Fall and returning to base camp the same day. The second cycle took us up to camp 1 (6000m) for two nights and camp two (6400m) for one. In this, the third cycle we slept at camp 1, then camp 2 then camp 3 (7200m). After the third cycle we take a four day rest in the thick low air at Pheriche (c.
4257m). Some teams have taken a helicopter and descended to Kathmandu for their rest. This phase is called the “deep descent”.
According to the plan (always the first casualty in times of changing
weather) we trek back up to base camp on 12 May. After that we run our summit attempt.
Throughout our third cycle climb we were dogged by Shipton, a small Tibetan Mastif. At the top of the Ice Fall he followed us up double ladders. We were astonished on arriving at Camp 2 to find the mutt curled up in the entrance to Paul’s tent, exhausted by his efforts, having visited the base of the Lhotse Face (6600m). Shipton’s efforts were recorded in the AC dispatches
(www.adventureconsultants.co.nz) where the oddest feature of the story was the emails we received from animal activists asking “can’t some one save the poor dog” yet at no time did we get any concern for the three Sherpas who were killed in the Ice Fall (see last blog). Odd isn’t it? For the information of those animal correspondents; Shipton was not lost in a crevasse, nor frozen to death, nor delivered to the nearest kitchens, but carried down by Sherpas who are convinced that he is a reborn mountaineer. I am still trying to guess which of the late climbers I know of might have been reborn as a camp hound. I can think of quite a few living candidates.
The first time we climb from camp 2 to camp 3 is often considered the hardest single day of the trip. It is exhausting. We arrived burned and dehydrated from the intense sun and gasping in the rare dry air. Paul, George and I shared a tent and I began to melt ice for tea. It was to take an hour to make each two litre pot from ice.
In the neighbouring tent we heard the sound of someone throwing up over his companions; “Its OK, I always do this at altitude” we heard him say afterwards.
In order to keep the flame protected from the wind I wrapped the stove with its windshield, not realizing the potentially disastrous consequences of restricting air to the flame.
In the night, while brewing I felt suddenly hot, nauseous, and dizzy. I turned off the stove, threw away its windshield and opened all the tent flaps; with the thin breeze that flowed through our tent I slowly began to feel better.
It was not till morning that the ensuing bitter headache began to abate. My tent companions, Paul and George were very understanding (perhaps fearing that I would throw up on them) and pressed analgesics and sympathy on me.
Paul, an ex-paratrooper, said that CO poisoning normally leaves no clue other than loss of consciousness. Perhaps, George the Anesthetist suggested, it had provoked some kind of AMS episode. He kindly explained the basics to me. I have summarized them below;
(1)
Haemoglobin + oxygen = oxy-haemoglobin
Haemoglobin + carbon-monoxide = carboxy-haemoglobin Haemoglobin + carbon dioxide = carbameno-haemoglobin
(2)
carboxy-haemoglobin prevents oxy-haemoglobin forming so reduces the oxygen carrying capacity of the blood.
“Oh thank you” I said, “that makes me fell much better.”
“Yes,” George continued “and don’t forget;
(3)the carboxy-heamoglobin has a half life of about twelve hours.
“So, you should start to feel better sometime tomorrow.”
“Oh wonderful” by now I was looking for a plastic bag to be sick into.
The descent on 6 May was no less tiresome than the climb. Stumbling down the Lhotse Face we passed Italian Uber-Athlete Simone Moro. He had just had his rucksack stolen from the bottom of the Lhotse Face. 26 kg of prototype tent, down clothing, sleeping bag and other equipment.
“What kind of person would have done that?” I asked.
“Someone short of money.” He replied sadly.
Yesterday was our first rest day here in Pheriche, our first day of “deep descent”. There is some hypothetical basis for this, according to George (quoting John West and Michael Ward). The aim is to achieve “an un-compensated primary respiratory alkalosis”.
“This is maybe ideal on summit day”, said George, “but not necessarily during the rest of the expeditions.” I confess to being too brain tired to ask him elucidate. Perhaps in the next blog.
Also yesterday, Paul and I walked two hours down to Pangboche to visit the serene Lama Geche again. He said we needed to visit him on our way back; in order to stop him praying for the team. He could go on for years if we do not drop by.
Meanwhile, other members of the group found the local newspaper had a story about Keith Richards. He had fallen out of a coconut tree in Fiji, but was said to be in good spirits (surely the wrong type of drug) reported the ‘The Himalaya’ 9 May 2006.
It has been a month and a half since we have seen our partners. Conversation always turns to food and sex at this point in any expedition. I am going to conclude with just one example. Over a pot of fresh breakfast coffee today, Guy recalled a Rob Hall story;
Rob on phone to girl friend after very long expedition; “Make sure you have a mattress strapped to your back when I get off the plane!”
Girlfriend; “Make sure you are the first off the plane!”
Comments
Hi Vic,
Like the medical equations. sorry you got CO poisoning though!
Its very very windy here in the UK so we are off windsurfing at the weekend. Which must seem a million miles away from everest!
Hope the summit attempt goes well. Have you seen the man with no legs yet?
Mark
Posted by: Mark Tuthill | May 18, 2006 09:30 PM
Victor,
I have a (very) small token of thanks that I would like to send you for your help and support on Everest this year - can I have a postal address please(I've lost your email address)?
I hope that all goes well for you.
george
Posted by: george shorten | August 13, 2006 08:00 PM
Hi George,
I am preparing to climb Everest via the SOuth Col in 2007. Based on your experience, would you rather recommend AC, AAI or IMG? (I also heard that Robert Link is offering great services).
My email is attila.jelinko@email.com
Hope you are doing well.
Bests
Attila
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