27 january Mumbai
I missed the Doug Scott lecture in Chamonix last week, because I was lecturing in Mumbai. There must be some kind of hypothesis about that sort of thing; any specialist conference will generate an equal and opposite second conference in a time and place inaccessible to those at the first conference.
It was two months ago that in a moment of utter weakness I had agreed to give two lectures for the Himalayan Club. (www.himalayanclub.com/ab_history.htm). It all seemed so far away at the time, but as the weeks passed by in Antarctica then in les Houches the deadline for the talks loomed larger and larger. What would the Indian audience be like? Would they be stern and serious? Would they look on un-amused? Would they be awake? What on earth was I thinking when I agreed? I must have been drinking again. I really have to look into stopping that, it is getting me into all sorts of trouble.
It was all the fault of one Harish Kapadia. Harish has been at the centre of the Indian mountaineering for decades, and probably has more first hand knowledge of the Indian Himalayas than any other living creature. He must have accumulated years of trekking and expedition travel. It is extraordinary that he finds time to fit in his other passions; cricket and eating. The HC lectures were taking place while India was playing Pakistan and even more importantly, and by the same law of physics that governs conference calendars, Bombay (PC nomenclature has not reached the cricket world yet) were losing to UP (Uttar Pradesh). The worst thing was the three best Bombay players were playing the international game. That was the trouble with being a supporter of the best cricket side in India. The national team keeps stealing your best players, then you drop down the league table. Personally I rather like that; it is a bit like a very natural handicap system. Harish doesn't agree.
Harish took me to lunch between lectures in the very civilized Indian Cricket Club stadium where, bizarrely, Holland were playing an Indian third (fourth?) eleven. I looked long and hard, but none of the players appeared to look very Dutch. Harish explained "that is because they are all Indian immigrants." I picked at my yellow Biriani, sipped at the Kingfisher beer, and nodded.
My second lecture was meant to be the Siesta Slot; the after lunch re-starter; the lecture slot where you look down on the front row slumped back in their chairs, snoring in concert. Harish Kapadia said the main job of the Siesta Slot speaker is not to be too loud or produce any sudden noise. It can affect the digestion.
Early the next morning we had yoga. From the apartment balcony I watched the thin milky light of dawn flooded the bay of Bombay. A flock of urban crows wheeled in the sky. A fishing boat bobbed in the water, its motor stuttering into life. The rising tide of traffic began to fill the streets of the city.
The streets of Mumbai are scattered with colonial mansions, gently decaying, their broken entrance gates and balconies hanging loose. They are waiting to be bulldozed and replaced by apartment blocks. The last British influence, falling under the new Indian self confidence. This is the worlds second fastest growing economy.
After the conference there was rock climbing in the Western Ghats, where the village farmers are poor and water is carried home on head pots. Even there, the cell phones worked. The road side stalls sold sweet tea and Batata Wara (literally a "potato round-thing"). I had expected to find huge loose cliffs in the Ghats, and there were some of those too, but Pampiya and Kai took me to a basalt pinnacle called Dukes Nose, which had a five pitch bolted climb which I would grade at French 6b. And then down to the "Plus" valley where there were a collection of short bolted climbs up to 7a. I was surprised to say the least. It was just like home. The rock feels like natural high friction limestone. It is in fact basalt: the Ghats mark the edge of the Deccan Plateau; continental lava traps laid down 65 million years ago (perhaps) causing the mass extinction which terminated the cretaceous period. Deccan comes from the Sanscrit word for South, and even in January you have to climb on the shaded north faces.
The next day I left India at 2 am local time. By 2 pm CET I was back on the skis in les Houches. The day finished in my local cafe with a small but powerful expresso and a quick call to my bank in London. I was answered by a pleasant voice from the Mumbai call centre. There is something going on here that I just cannot put my finger on; maybe it because I am just too old. There are times when I just do not understand how our world works..

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