18 December 2005 Punta Arenas
The first glimpse of Punta Arenas
is of the outlying suburbs set in a landscape of treeless dunes rolling down to the grey wind swept seas. The white horses are scattered in random isolation across the straights of Magellan. The houses are thrown up in the tin-shack style of architecture. The universal marine tin-shack style, endemic in coastal communities around the world.
The approach to Punta is a long straight road, traversing the edge of the dunes. A cross wind was blowing sand over the tarmac in a yellow ground hugging mist. I had hired a taxi to take me into town. There was something bird like about the vehicle; it was black with a bright yellow top. I guessed it must be some kind of male, but which species? The yellow and black taxi rolled with the load of our expedition bags.
I am here to meet the other members of the team. Wim, Dave and Sam arrived yesterday. Doug arrived from Oklahoma today, a day late. His first pilot at Dallas couldn´t fly for family reasons. The change pilot couldn´t fly because he was drunk. American Airlines had to cancel the flight for the day, and attempt to calm down a large number of passengers. The North Americans were not happy, the Chileans were incandescent.
We won´t have that problem, our airline is operated by ALE (Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions) who have been quite superbly organised, and very relaxed. We had our briefing meeting today, they weighed our baggage to preloaded it on the aircraft. Tomorrow, if the weather is good, we board the Ilyushin 76 for the 5 hour flight to Patriot Hills in Antarctica. If the winds are in the wrong direction at Patriot Hills we could be delayed by days.
We have been planning this trip for almost a year, and in 12 hours time we could be stepping out onto the blue ice
runway. We could actually be standing on the Antarctic continent. Patriot Hills is 80 degrees south. From there we
will fly north to 78 degrees, to the Vinson Massif. This second flight will be by Twin Otter, to Vinson basecamp.
Mount Vinson is a little under 4900m. Not much higher than Mont Blanc, but with reduced atmospheric pressure, the
summit is similar to a 6000m mountain in the Himalaya.
All that is in the future. These last couple of days we have been packing and repacking, going out to eat in a town that has bland food and terrible coffee, and wandering around the town square.
There was a festival in the square today.A bandstand had been erected, in advance of the band the organisers were playing Pink Floyd very loud. On another side of the square an imprromptu band of drummers had set up a strong latin rythm. On a third side were small children on a platform singing along to a pop song by Madonna, and directed by their teacher. If you stood in just the right place you could hear all three in wonderful raucous disharmony. Interestingly the DJ at the band-stand was unconsciously sending a message to the children and their teacher, he was playing the Wall at full volume. ¨Teacher, leave those kids alone!¨
The square has large old trees and grand old classical buildings which contrast with town´s outskirts. Just two hundred metres away, down by the docks, a concrete version of a greek temple strongly recalls the the entrance to the Customs House in Dublin, James Gandon´s 1707 masterpiece. Except here, the columns, the walls, every surface shows the marks of the shuttering, and the concrete is rough and unfinished. The columns are straight, the same diameter at the base and the capital. They have no entasis. (For entasis see www.bartleby.com/65/en/entasis.html)
Behind this remarkable and bizarre edifice, on the far side of the straights of Magellan, lies the pale purple mass of Terra del Fuego where, were we able to see them, the sand dunes would undoubtedly be randomly scattered with coastal tin-shacks. That is the direct we will fly next, over Terra del Fuego. Past Ushuaia. The end of the Americas...
If we fly out first thing tomorrow the next blog will be on return from the antarctic.
Comments
Victor,
Good luck on Vinson! I am looking forward to reading when you get back.
Joost
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