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February 25, 2006

Mt Kenia, the mountaineers mountain of Africa

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Mt Kenia is a true climbers mountain and not like Kilimanjaro a "trekking peak".
It is steep and craggy and with twin summit spires, its the kind of peak mountaineers may dream of if they think of serious climbing. Her summit is made up by two peaks Neilion, 5188m and Bation 5199m.
Both peaks are very adventurious to climb and even the "easy routes"are technical.
Here is some more information about mt Kenia...............................

The name mt Kenia is from the local name "Kiinyaa", what means "mountain of the ostrich", the local thought the white spots of the snow looks like the withe feathers on the male ostrich. Later when the first "white people" arrived they translated this into Kenia. So Kenia is called after her heighest point and not the other way around.

The trek in to mt Kenia is amazing!!!!!
The climate is very tropical and this gives a misty mistirious atmosfhere to the mountain. The plants look like they are from an other planet. 80 spieces of plants that you see, only grow here on mt Kenia.

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It takes about three days to walk to the base of the climbs, but beware most climb starts at about 4700m so it is wise to take some rest days to aclimate

The easy route is the Mackinder route to Neilion, it is a 16 pitch route and the crux is the "de Graaf's variation".
This is a pitch of IV+ uiaa at 5000m, the rest of the route is grade II and III mostly.
It is a very clasic climb, like some major routes in the Alps, the route finds the "weak" spots in the mountain and follows them. Beware it is sometimes hard to find the way and because of the afternoon mist and rain, conditions can change very quickly! mt Kenia lies at the equator but this doesn't mean it is always nice and sunny!

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It is possible to rappel this route down from the summit, 50 and 25 m rappels and be down the same day.
In a emergency you can bivi at the summit in a small bivi hut.

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The view from the summit is amazing, the plains of Kenia with the forest in front of you!

This is just one way to the summit, there are numerious of routes even multi-day routes.
Because all the attention of climbing in Africa goes to Kilimanjaro, you can have mt Kenia for yourself most of the time.

For me climbing in Africa was a boys dream that became true !
The experience is so special because of the setting of the surroundings, I hope more people will check it out!

February 21, 2006

Introduction

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First I shall introduce myself:
I am Arnold Coster a climber from Rotterdam, I work as a professional expedition leader for Summitclimb and climb all around the world for them. I am sponsored by Eider clothing. I hear you think: a flatlander as a professional climber?
It all started when I was 16 years old.................

When I was 16 I went on holiday to France with my parents, like all Dutch people, and got the idea to join a climbing course in the Verdon. The famous rock climbing area, that time I learned to belay, lead and make safe ancors etc.
I got completely hooked to climbing, but what to do if you are from a country with no mountains?
So I went to indoorclimbing gyms and started to meet "real"climbers. Very quickly I started to make trips to the Alps and by the time I was 18, me and my climbing friend started to nail all the major peaks there. This was completly inresponsable and dangerious, we had no idea what we where doing! We had no money, no gear, no experience!
Very quickly we gained experience and somehow survived this dangerious period of experimenting in the Alps.
I sarted to look around to find a way to make my proffesion of my hobby, this took a wile......

Then I met the famous climber Dan Mazur, we became friends and he offered me a chance as a assistand leader and later I started to lead trips for him alone. I went to Manaslu, Everest (twice), Cho Oyu (twice), Lothse, mt Kenia and Kili. This sping I am going to Everest and Lothse again!
I also have a Sherpa girlfriend, who becomes my wife this spring! She always joins me on my climbing adventures now. She is also a good climber, her name is : Maya Sherpa, she was the first nepaleese woman on Ama Dablam, Pumori and Cho Oyu. This spring she is joining me on Lothse!

So from a flatlander I became part of the Sherpa community. I am a very lucky man to have uncles and cousins who are the best climbers in the world. I am very proud to be part of this family!!!
My passion is climbing and by being a proffesional climber now I have a chance to share this with all kinds of people from all over the world. The mountains are for everybody and I hope I can help a lot of people living their dreams in the future, like I do !!!!!!!!!!!

Stay tuned for my next dispatch I will tell you about my last climb on mt Kenia