Alan Arnette http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/ The latest news from the international climbing world en Copyright 2006 Wed, 06 Sep 2006 08:51:23 -0800 http://www.sixapart.com/movabletype/?v=3.2 http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss Longs Peak Loft Route Colorado's Longs Peak offers more than one hundred routes to the summit but most people take the Keyhole Route. If you want an alternative that is less crowded, slightly shorter by mileage, longer by time and more difficult actually climbing then the Loft Route is for you. I most recently climbed it in August, 2006. Please see my other Longs Peak pages for an overview of the mountain since this page will cover the Loft Route only.

]]> http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/09/longs_peak_loft_route.php http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/09/longs_peak_loft_route.php Wed, 06 Sep 2006 08:51:23 -0800 PostScript: K2 Russian Deaths and Ger update plus Marcus' Summit Report Tragedy on K2 as 4 Russian climbers were killed in an avalanche near the summit. Banjo, who climbed with WIlco, Ger and others on our team, escaped along with Jacek and 3 Russian climbers according to his site. My sincere condolences go out to the Russian's family and friends.

I can confirm that all our 29 team members are back home except for Mick who should be in transit today.

Mountains are dangerous in the best of times. I have attached an update directly from Ger on his condition. An amazing experience for him. Marcus was kind enough to give me permission to repost an email he sent out to his friends on his Broad Peak summit. It is quite a read and reveals the dangers of even an "easy" 8000m peak. Thanks Marcus and Ger. Well done. Please Enjoy:

]]> http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/08/postscript_k2_russian_deaths_a.php http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/08/postscript_k2_russian_deaths_a.php Wed, 16 Aug 2006 06:26:55 -0800 K2oo6 WorldCLimb - A look Back What a trip … and I left before it was half over! I said several times to my teammates that I considered the expedition a success just by getting us all to Islamabad. But my real measure was a safe return for each person back to their families. I am thankful that both goals were accomplished.

I am also appreciate of your generosity in raising money for the earthquake survivors. I will announce the final number and the agency to receive it on a video I will post next week on my site.

]]> http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/08/k2oo6_worldclimb_a_look_back.php http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/08/k2oo6_worldclimb_a_look_back.php Sat, 05 Aug 2006 15:55:54 -0800 The right thing to do I have made the decision to leave the expedition and return to the US as quickly as I can.

]]> http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/the_right_thing_to_do.php http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/the_right_thing_to_do.php Thu, 29 Jun 2006 09:19:49 -0800 The Weather Turns We knew we had it great for longer than normal so it was no surprise last night when the clouds moved in, temps dropped and it started to snow.

]]> http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/the_weather_turns.php http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/the_weather_turns.php Wed, 28 Jun 2006 07:46:02 -0800 Current climber locations on Broadpeak After yesterday's summit by Ryan and the route now fixed, I am sure everyone is curious where their friends or family are currently located and how they are doing. With a couple of climbers who asked not to be noted here is a list of where they are, their highest camp reached and an * indicates they are heading towards the summit.

]]> http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/current_climber_locations_on_b.php http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/current_climber_locations_on_b.php Sun, 25 Jun 2006 22:20:28 -0800 First Summit for Field Touring Alpine K2006 WorldClimb On Sunday, June 25 at 10:27 AM, Ryan Waters, of the FTA team reached the true summit of Broad Peak, 26,401'/8047m via the normal route, the West Ridge. They left Camp 4 at 2:30 AM and returned to C3 at 3:00 PM.

]]> http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/first_summit_for_field_touring.php http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/first_summit_for_field_touring.php Sun, 25 Jun 2006 07:19:44 -0800 Red Blood Cells at Camp 2 c3.JPGWe awoke this Thursday morning to the highest winds yet on the climb. With seven of us at Camp 2 and Wilco plus three HAPs at Camp 3; the winds plus cold temps called for a change of plans.

]]> http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/red_blood_cells_at_camp_2.php http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/red_blood_cells_at_camp_2.php Thu, 22 Jun 2006 00:39:55 -0800 Broadpeak Camp 1 Today we have 18 of our 21 climbers on Broad Peak. Thankfully the other two teams up here, the Australians and the Austrians are working well with our monster team and in fact are even sharing their tents with us. Today I am at Camp 1, 18,270'/5570m.

]]> http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/post_2.php http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/post_2.php Tue, 20 Jun 2006 05:36:53 -0800 Climbing Broad Peak With a group this size, logistics is the key. Last night we discussed who would go to Camp 1 first and for how long.

]]> http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/climbing_broad_peak.php http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/climbing_broad_peak.php Sun, 18 Jun 2006 20:08:11 -0800 The Climbing Begins With everyone settled into Base Camp, climbers are starting to work their way up Broad Peak.

]]> http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/the_climbing_begins.php http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/the_climbing_begins.php Fri, 16 Jun 2006 22:16:05 -0800 Broadpeak basecamp For the first time last night we had all the team together for dinner. It was bitter sweet given our five trekkers were leaving today.

]]> http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/broadpeak_basecamp.php http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/broadpeak_basecamp.php Thu, 15 Jun 2006 23:39:00 -0800 Concordia I arrived at Concordia this morning along with Kurt, Di and Ian. It was as spectacular as I had hoped. It is about 14,800' - 4884m so we have a few headaches but I believe everyone on the team is well.

]]> http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/concordia.php http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/concordia.php Tue, 13 Jun 2006 07:06:19 -0800 Skardu to Askole Boy and their toys, so the saying goes - not that I agree with it, you understand. However as we gathered in the K2 Hotel parking lot, we saw a literal fleet of supped up 4-wheel drive jeeps. 4 to a jeep, this fleet of 6 was to be our transportation today for 80 miles to the start of trek to base camp.

]]> http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/skardu_to_askole.php http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/skardu_to_askole.php Tue, 06 Jun 2006 08:53:30 -0800 Karakorum Highway I had always heard about the Karakorum Highway. It was associated with famous names in history such as Marco Polo. Its reputation is one of hazards, turns and death. In fact, it is said that 100 men died building every half mile of the road. Defined by the Greeks but made into a highway by the Pakistani and Chinese in the 1960s and 1970s it is an amazing journey.

]]> http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/karakorum_highway.php http://everytrail.net/blog/alan/2006/06/karakorum_highway.php Mon, 05 Jun 2006 09:09:09 -0800