This route, like all the others on Longs can be dangerous year-round. On September 3, 2006 a climber died while descending from the top of the couloir. Apparently he was a victim of rock fall from the cliffs at the top of the couloir. Here is a link to an eyewitness report. My sincere condolences to the climber's family.

The Loft route follows the couloir between Mt. Meeker, 13,700' and Longs. It is a class 3 climb thus requiring scrambling using your hands for balance. Normally ropes are not used but could be useful for novice climbers especially on the down climb from the Loft proper on the northwest side. I use it as a training climb in the winter months since it is full of snow and steep - a great workout. But I rarely get to the top due to high winds, avalanche danger or other risky conditions so always be careful.

There are four parts to the day: 1) trailhead to just below Chasm lake, 2) Meekers couloir and the Loft 3) the downclimb (looking for Clark's Arrow) and traverse to the homestretch then up to the summit and 4) back down. The first part is simple enough: beautiful trail through the pine forest rising above the tree line at 10,500'. You will see the trail going left to right high above the treeline. If it is windy, this will be your first test of Longs. After about two hours you should arrive at the junction signs pointing the way to the boulder field (to the right) and to Chasm Lake (left).

Take the left trail down about 100'. Make sure you enjoy the views of Peacock Lake on your left and the Diamond straight ahead. Soon you arrive at the rebuilt ranger's cabin that replaced the old one that was destroyed in Spring 2003 by an avalanche from the couloir you are about to climb! This a reminder that this route is extremely difficult and dangerous in the winter.

Now the fun begins. From the Ranger's cabin, follow the trail on the right side (north) of the rising ravine. You soon turn due west as you head straight up this couloir. The trail meanders amongst the sofa size rocks and soon begins a lazy switchback pattern to the rock ledges just below running water or a frozen waterfall, depending on the season. In the winter, take any route up the couloir but be aware of avalanche dangers. It may seem like a long and tedious climb up the couloir - and it is! But maintain a steady pace and you will be surprised how soon you are near the top.

The next challenge is to find the exit ramp off the couloir and to the Loft. About 90% of the way to the top, look to the left (South) for a rock ledge ramp. It is easy to see from the Chasm Lake junction but can be hard to find up close. You will have to do some class 3 scrambling on big rocks to see the ramp. It goes straight left towards Meeker and is about two feet wide. Do not climb straight up the cliffs. This is serious climbing with rock fall danger. Also do not downclimb the cliffs without proper protection and skills - even then it is very dangerous. If you find yourself still scrambling once off the main couloir, you are not on route. The ramp, while a little narrow, is relatively flat and you should be able to walk easily. Once to the end of this ramp, it is an easy and obvious switchback path to the Loft, the main saddle between Meeker and Longs. It should take about an hour or two make the climb from the junction sign. Click on the couloir picture above for a diagram of the route.

The Loft is an area the size of two football fields and just as flat. You are about to tackle the crux of the Loft route. In the summer there are cairns with huge white quartz rocks marking the route. Head northwest to the corner. If it looks like you are heading towards a cliff, you are on the correct path! There are several gullies that can be downclimbed - some easy, some not. A lot of people end up at the most northern gully. Look for a rough and rugged rock filled gully going down. While it looks hard, most people can make this down climb of 100 feet. This one has several five to seven foot drops that require some stressful moves and leaps of faith! For very inexperienced climbers, they will need an experienced partner to help on a few big moves but experienced climbers will make the down climb in 15 minutes.

The "normal" route from the Loft is another gully to the south of the one I described that takes you to the infamous "Clark's Arrow" - an arrow painted on a west-facing rock, pointing south. Most people never find it and it is really visible only once you reach it! But the theory is to follow the carins to the northwest edge, then take the "gully" down.

Regardless of how you descend, don't go all the way to the valley floor but take a right about 2/3rds down looking for the trail that goes underneath a rock wall aptly named the Palisades. You are through the tough part and now need to continue North toward Longs as far as you can. There is a fairly well worn and carined trail for this section but it can be hard to find so always spot the next carin as you progress north. It will be obvious when it is time to turn left, west, up the boulder filled slope to join the final section on the Keyhole route or the Homestretch. On a summer weekend, you will see many people on the Homestretch. Hug the wall on your left as you climb these smooth rock slabs. And then ...

You are on the summit! It may take as much as six hours to reach the summit using the Loft route.

Congratulations. Take some time and enjoy the view. Don't forget to sign the log. It is in a plastic tube between two big rocks near the East side of the summit. There are usually people standing around it. Make sure you eat and drink since it is likely you have not had enough of either to this point. Now you have a decision: return the same route of via the keyhole. Either way, you have 4 to 6 hours of downclimbing and trails ahead. Remember to get off the summit by noon or at any approaching thunderheads. Many people are killed by lightning than falling on Longs.

Returning via the Loft route involves some interesting climbing back up to the Loft. While not hard, it can be challenging for some inexperienced climbers. And you might find Clark's Arrow this time! If everyone is tired, I would suggest the keyhole route. It is a little easier but a little longer. Please see my page on this route for details

Congratulations, you have summited Longs Peak, the highest mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park by a route few people take. The Keyhole is clearly the most popular given it is well marked. But the Loft offers more challenging climbing, steeper terrain, more ups and down and just as stunning views. The weather can be difficult, especially in the couloir between Longs and Meeker. The wind is the biggest problem on any route up Longs but especially so in this narrow steep valley.

I can confirm that all our 29 team members are back home except for Mick who should be in transit today.

Mountains are dangerous in the best of times. I have attached an update directly from Ger on his condition. An amazing experience for him. Marcus was kind enough to give me permission to repost an email he sent out to his friends on his Broad Peak summit. It is quite a read and reveals the dangers of even an "easy" 8000m peak. Thanks Marcus and Ger. Well done. Please Enjoy:

Thanks everyone for your well wishes. I'm recovering nicely alright here in Ireland. Unfortunately I can't tell you a whole lot about the accident - only what Joelle and Mick told me about it afterwards. The details of the day and the 2 days before are slowly returning though. Mostly the funny parts. Thankfully neither Mick, Wilco, Joelle , Banjo or Jackcek were in the path of the rock avalanche. Wilco was above, Joelle was closest to me in a rock section before the snow field I was on and Mick and Banjo bellow in camp1. I'm not too sure where Jackcek was - either at camp1 or about to arrive there. For the descent it seems like I was merely operating in the present tense as I've no recollection of it yet and yet, according to Mick, I was descending unassisted.

The Russians and Japanese then met us (Banjo, Mick and myself)at ABC and accompanied me back to basecamp. I'm extremely grateful to a lot of people involved here of course - too numerous to mention. Also I have to say that FTA and ATP were extrodinaire in their handling of the incident. Thank you. Sorry to have given all my friends a scare though. One thing's for sure, next time I'll have a sat phone of my own. I would have been able to aliviate a lot of the worry at home with one simple phone call.

Finally had a CT scan. IRL lads say they were mad in Pakistan not to give me one..surprise surprise. :-)5mm depression fracture on one side and a minor fracture that runs along the base of the skull on the other. Heading to another hospital tomorrow where they are likely to operate - stick in a screw and pull it out. They might decide not to due the time lapsed since the accident. That's the latest.

From Marcus:

Traveling and climbing in Pakistan is a huge adventure starting the minute one gets off the plane. Unlike Nepal, reaching the climbs in Pakistan is not straight forward. Ten days were required to make the trip from Islamabad to Broad Peak base camp. The trip up the Karakoram Highway and Indus Highway (Imodium required) make the road from Vancouver to Whistler look like the 401 Highway in Ontario (wide, straight and smooth). We were informed by our driver that in most years they loose at least one bus into the Indus River, never to be seen again.

The walk to Concordia was worth the trip alone. I was stopped in my tracks when Broad Peak (BP) and K2 came into view at Concordia. Both of these peaks project over 3km above the glacier. For those of us that live at sea level, the summits of BP and K2 are over 8km above our standard level of reference.

We had an excellent group of climbers and trekkers heading into base camp. The international flavour was fun and resulted in patriotic competitiveness with Irish, Swiss, Scottish and Canadian flags flying in base camp. Soccer fans even brought flags for their favorite teams to celebrate the world cup.

The acclimatization process for an 8000m peak takes several weeks and lots of schleping up and down the same route. On June 27th we left Camp 3 (6800m) heading for Camp 4 (7500m) and onto the summit (8047 m). These are not huge distances between camps but movement at these elevations is slow, at best. Our plan was to reach Camp 4 just before dark, to brew up, and then leave for the summit at 2 am. C4 consisted of two small single wall tents so space was tight with 2 people in each tent. Through miss communication, we had understood that there was 2 stoves and pots in C4, but when we arrived there was only one stove and pot. This may not sound like that much of an issue until you consider that it takes almost an hour to make a liter of water at this elevation. Even with 6 hours between arrival and departure we were unable to prepare enough water to rehydrate from that days climb and prepare adequate water for summit day. We were dehydrated even before we left for the summit.

Three of us were away from the tents at 2:00 am; Joelle decided to leave after us. The going was tough! There were no tracks to follow, it was dark, cold and we were plowing through knee deep snow. Once we were on the summit ridge the snow was less deep and the climbing more interesting. Our team did not install any fixed lines above camp 3 so we got the full feel of the exposure on the rock sections. There were fixed lines from previous years but they are best not trusted.

After several weeks of hard work I was fortunate enough to reach the summit of Broad Peak with Mick and John on June 28th at 2:00 pm. John and Mick were the first Irishman to reach the summit of Broad Peak and I believe I was the 4th Canadian to do so. Unfortunately, there were no views from the summit because it was snowing, windy and cold. Attempts to display the Canadian flag were thwarted by the wind.

Getting to the top is only half of the challenge when climbing big mountains. Our descent went generally as planned until we reached Camp 4. On first look I thought the tents had blown away. However, they had been buried by snow avalanching off of the bergschrund above. It took about an hour of digging by hand to excavate the tents adequately to allow a tight squeeze inside. To our horror, the snow that had buried the tents had swept away the only stove (long storey how it got left outside). The lack of stove meant no water. It had been 17 hours since we left C4 in the morning and the one liter of water we each had been carrying was long gone.

Mick and I were in one tent and John in the other. Mick did not have a sleeping bag so the close quarters were helpful in keeping us warm - pride aside we huddled in the tent. Snow continued to pour down on the tents throughout the night. By morning the lack of water was taking its toll. The only option was to descend to camp 3 and make water there. By 9:00 am we were descending in clear weather. The progress was slow; very slow. By 2 pm it was snowing again and we lost the route. We contemplated hiding in a crevasse until the weather improved but were afraid we may never come out again so decided to keep descending in what we thought was the right direction. Fortunately, we got a break in the weather at just the critical time and we saw C3 below us. The climbing was easy and we were able to literally stumble down hill to the tents. We reached C3 at about 6:00 pm - we were wrecked. It had been 48 hours since we were last properly hydrated and over 24 hours since our last sip of water.

Hours were spent brewing water and drinking soup at C3 but we were slow to recover. After a night at C3 we headed down again to C2 where friends met us and feed us more water, soup and food - thanks Carl and Kurt - I needed the help.

Base camp was a welcome site after the days on Broad Peak. Large quantities of food were consumed and a much needed wash had, before moving up to K2 base camp.

I had never intended on climbing high on K2. I found it psychologically very difficult at K2. The route is dangerous and the ever-present body parts and signs of previous failed attempts played on my mind. I found a portion of Dan Culver's climbing suite (the first Canadian to climb K2 - unfortunately Dan died on the descent) melting out of the glacier below the south face. My contribution to the climb on K2 was carrying a load of cook fuel to camp 1.

Two friends and I left K2 base camp on July 21 heading for home. It was difficult to leave friends and fellow climbers behind but it was time to go.

http://www.alanarnette.com

I am also appreciate of your generosity in raising money for the earthquake survivors. I will announce the final number and the agency to receive it on a video I will post next week on my site.

By now the background is well know: FTA and I dreamed upped a double header climb of Broad Peak and K2. We posted the info on our websites; Dave worked on the logistics while I managed the applicants. In the end there were 29 climbers and trekkers out of 100 interested parties.

ATP met us in Islamabad and we continued our “busses, jeeps and walking” journey, taking almost two weeks to get to the Broad Peak basecamp. Pakistan said hello to each of us with a special welcome: diarrhea, headaches, vomiting and lost luggage! And there were smiles, laughs, helping hands and a humbling introduction to our fortunes compared to their struggles. I will always remember the kids.

Carl and Kurt won the award for time lost waiting on bags – almost 10 days in all. The Irish served as the advance team by getting ahead of everyone to save Ger’s lungs from the smog of Islamabad. And then there was my bug.

I still don’t know where I caught it but it kicked my butt. Lying in the fetal position in the dirt on the Baltoro Glacier, I thought it was all over … and it was day two of the expedition! If it hadn't’t been for Carl and Ryan, it would have been.

But the stunning beauty of the Karakorum kept everyone going. I will never forget my first view of Broad and K2 – unbelievable. They were one set of bookends to an amazing shelf of natural wonders. The 5 day trek to BC was worth the trip alone.

Arriving at BC, everyone was anxious to get climbing – you know: Climb On! JJ, Ryan, Tagi and other HAPs took on the task of “fixing” the mountain. They worked tirelessly setting lines to C1, C2 and beyond. They would return to BC for more rope and supplies and go back up. Soon we had the first summit by Ryan – and in style. The Porter community celebrated with gusto the summits of three HAPs –a rarity in the Karakorum.

Meanwhile Wilco, Ger and Joelle set the pace for the rest of us. Joelle, without any her bags borrowed boots from the Austrians, tied an 8mm cord around her waste as a “harness” and climbed to C2! We all just shook our heads with amazement.

Sub-teams began to form: Di, Ian and myself; Jan, Nick and Matt; Con and John; Mark, Mick, Ger, Joelle, Marcus and of course my favorite – The Odd Couple – Kurt and Carl. It was not cliques but rather climbers at the same pace or skills. And everyone on the team worked together.

I always enjoyed the times when the Basecamp tent was full. John telling us another story, Carl pointing his camera, an Irish joke or the pleasure of a song, complaining about more Dahl - we were all entertained. And the bonds grew.

However, the team began to spread out. One day, I counted 14 of us on the mountain at 4 separate camps. It was gratifying that at any time, everyone knew where everyone else was. The team was a team.

Wilco continued to lead the charge with attempt after attempt. Sometimes it was bad weather, other times it was lack of critical mass of more climbers to break trail. But he did not give up. He and Ger made it to the fore-summit before wisely turning back due to darkness.

Mick, Con, Marcus and Joelle all made the true summit – a testament to their determination and strength. Almost everyone made it to C2 – 21,000’ or 6300m. Many set personal altitude records.

I chronicled my climb on a long (and I mean long) trip report on my site but two times stand out clearly in my mind. Sitting in my tent at C2, Marcus had dropped by for a visit. We chatted and soon he was off to wander around trying to fend off stiffness. Ian and Di were one tent over and were melting snow and stratagizing their next move. Con and John were swapping tales in their tent.

I sat cross-legged in the vestibule melting snow for my couscous dinner. The view was breath taking. The dirty-white glaciers snaked around the mountains. The jagged peaks of the Himalayas poked into the air like puppies looking for dinner. The steepness of Broad was unveiled in a subtle yet stern warning for us to be careful – very careful. And when I looked higher….

Ah, the goal. The tracks of my teammates and fellow climbers showed the way to C3 but I was not going to get there.

Another memory was my last climb to C1. Ian, Di, John, Nick and I left together from BC. It was a good morning to climb. As usual the weather was spectacular – how absolutely lucky we were during the Broad Peak time. John and Marcus lead the way from the break. I felt my strength simply melt away.

I arrived at C1 spent. Totally. Nothing left. Di offered me some electrolyte replacement. Ian melted some snow. Nick found a spare sleeping bag and pad for me since mine were at C2. I crawled into the Austrian tent and fell asleep.

I knew it was over and told JJ so over the radio. But I also felt the unquestioning support from my teammates. Carl and Kurt crawled into my tent and entertained me with their usual routines as I reflected on the meaning of mountaineering.

Amazingly, 5 days later after sitting in a tent on Broad Peak I was home.

The team continued on Broad as the K2 BC was established by Ryan and Josette. Courageous efforts were made to reach the true summit but the weather now started to return to “normal” Winds picked up, snow squalls became frequent and routes obscured. But personal stories of character started to be revealed.

On Broad, Mark, on his first 8K Hill, never gave up. A stronger young man does not exist. He made it to C4 before cold took his strength and bit his fingers. He wisely returned. Jan pushed it above C3 before saying "good enough." Di set her personal record and then returned to BC with her husband Ian – an impressive couple whom I was honored to climb with so much of my time. But there was also tragedy.

The leader of the Austrian team died after his summit. His partner radioed our BC for help but there was nothing that could be done. A horribly sad ending. On their down climb, Di and Ian helped create a happier ending. Thanks to Ian’s rope in his pack, they saved a climber’s life that was trapped in a crevasse. It puts everything into perspective.

With the Broad Peak climb over, the team split with most going home and others moving on to K2. The Karakorum revealed her true colors with deep snowfall, brutal cold, avalanches and rock fall.

Ryan, Mick, Wilco and Ger drove up the Hill once again setting the route for others to follow. But it seems that this was not to be – this year. Other teams lost their tents and gear on high camps as snowfall and avalanches swept them away. Our climbers made it to C3. However they spent a lot of time in BC waiting out the weather.

Falling rock ending Ryan’s bid with a strike to his knee. Nick, on his first big climb, impressively made the lower camps on K2 only to be hit in the chest by falling rock. And then Ger was seriously injured when a rock cut his head requiring a helicopter rescue from BC. Thankfully he has recovered. Joelle was also evacuated due to severe headaches. Hey, this climbing stuff is serious!

But there were success stories on K2. Carl made it to 8000m, another personal record. Several climbers reached C2 and navigated House’s Chimney and the infamous rock fall area.

I guess it is no surprise that Wilco was the last to leave the mountains. A natural born leader, he was determined in his climbing yet generous with his help. His second attempt on K2, I will not be surprised to see him return one day.

So it is over. Everyone is back home – alive and safe – and still friends.

Did you summit?

That is the question everyone always asks climbers when they get home. How about some different questions – Did you have a good time? What did you learn? Did you make any lifelong friends? Would you go back?

Did you get what you went for?

The answers are unique and personal to each climber. There are no right answers. We love mountains. We love mountaineering. We live to live the challenge. We appreciate the support we get from family and friends. We value the support from one another.

For many this will not be the last climb. In fact for some it was only the beginning. But whether the first or the last it was a great time.

Climb on!

Alan

While the countryside was rough and interesting, once again, the people captured my mind. For the first time we saw many women walking without veils along the road. They sometimes had their children with them but often were with other women. Almost every village had a middle school and one had a school for girls.

It became almost a game that when we approached a village, the children ran to the side of road and yelled out "Hello, one pen?"; Kids used to ask for money or candy but visitors have done a nice job of telling them no so now they ask for pens. In hindsight I wish I had brought 100 pens, they would have been gone in a second.

At one point on the road, it became very rough so our jeep slowed to a crawl. The kids ran to the side of the jeep and asked for pens. I almost never carry a pen but this year, I have a pair of trekking pants with a special pocket for a pen – and I had one!

I made eye contact with one screaming kid and just as I was handing him my pen, a bigger kid pushed him aside and reached for it. I pulled it back, made a long arm stretch and – success! – I passed the pen to my original receiver. We zoomed away with everyone laughing and he had a huge smile on his face!

We stopped for lunch at a random building along the road and had an excellent meal of potatoes, spinach, peas and goat – yes goat – we might as well get used to it! I finished quickly and went outside to see about 20 kids sitting on a stone wall. I took out my video camera and started filming – an instant hit! They loved seeing their moving faces smiling and laughing on the small screen. I asked them their names one by one but had no idea what they said. It really did not matter we all were having a great time. An elder came up and I asked him his name – Assai Bakum. He held the hand of his son, with the same name, as we spoke. His English was good and he told me all the children went to school. A nice man.

After six hours, we arrived at Askole. We were met by hundreds of men all vying for the several hundred porter jobs we needed. We are the largest expedition in Pakistan this year so we are quite popular and it seems that word had spread. We thanked our jeep drivers, gave them a tip for getting us here alive, and found that the FTA crew had already set up our tents.

So almost everyone is here now except for Kurt and Carl who are lagging due to their lost bags. We hope they will catch up with us in a few days. Everyone is n good health other than the odd stomach problem. And everyone is ready to start the trek.

As the sun was going down, I glanced up to see my first big Pakistani mountain – a majestic peak covered in snow and shrowded in cloud. I stared at it for a while as my mind drifted to the reason we are all here – to climb a mountain. Let's get on with it!

Climb on!

Alan

While the scenery was stunning it was the bus driver that captured everyone’s attention. The highway is a never-ending series of sharp turns, blind corners, steep climbs and narrow escapes. It was a total mystery to everyone how two approaching drivers made the last second decision to pull left or right, speed up or slow down or give way. A serious game of chicken!

We stopped often to let our stomach settles only to pick right up where we left off. However, it was at these stops that I began to see the Pakistani culture outside of the big city of Islamabad.

First, we rarely saw a woman on the streets. This part of the culture was evident with men sitting on the streets and working on the highways but very rarely we saw a woman working in a field or looking out a door. We were asked not to take their pictures and when they saw someone with a camera they simply vanished – or at least it seemed that way.

Next was the basic level of their lifestyle. In the Northern Areas, 80% of the people live an agricultural lifestyle – living on the plot of land where they grow rice and potatoes and raise their family. The villages were few and far between and consisted of basic adobe style buildings. It was here we witnessed the devastation of last year’s earthquakes.

While we saw many crumpled homes and fallen walls, one stood out in my mind. A small dirt block building was home to ten people. The boys were outside and interacted with us. They smiled easily after a few minutes and my outstretched hand and smile to them. They let me take their pictures and soon started showing off for the camera. This was fun.

Their sisters and adult women watched us carefully by peeking around the walls and from just inside the door. Like ghosts, they disappeared whenever I looked their way. Even when I finally got one’s attention and put down my camera, she made eye contact for a brief moment and then slipped away.

Another sense of the culture was in a slightly larger town where we stopped for a pre-arranged lunch. While the “restaurant” as nice and the food good, it was the people that left an impression. I walked down the street to take a few pictures. Soon a few teenage boys gathered around me. Some smiled but a couple had icy stares. I smiled and tried to interact with them. I asked if I could take their pictures and they nodded in agreement. I clicked a few but soon stopped when their expression hardened and their eyes became solid. I never felt afraid or in danger but it was clear that these young men wanted to make a statement.

The elders were quite different. The old men with their long beards or grey hair. They smiled toothless smiles and had a real twinkle in their eyes. Sometimes they laughed at my words in an expression of non-understanding.

The very young, the very old, and a troubled middle. Not unlike the rest of the world.

That night we spent in Chilias and Sunday took the nine more hours to reach Skardu. This is the largest city before the glaciers of the Himalayas end. We have spent the day resting up and finalizing our gear. We can buy a few things here such as climbing gear, clothes and food. But mostly everyone enjoyed not being in a bus!

The Karakorum Highway took us back in time with the perspective of the present. Not much has changed for generations for this land and these people. The river is a constant in this area. It defines the valley, provides the basics for the plants, animals and people. While cars, busses and trucks crowd the highway, it is the people and the land that define the Karakorum highway.

Tomorrow, Tuesday June 6, we take a 9-hour jeep ride to Askole – then the trek begins.

Climb on!

Alan