The season started with controversy as the political unrest in Katmandu delayed many expeditions and created uncertainty that gear and climbers would arrive on time. However it all got sorted as seasoned leaders guided their teams through the bureaucracy, small arms fire and chaos that comes with a country in turmoil. But by early April basecamp on both sides were established and teams got settled in. However there was a huge surprise for this season! The weather was spectactular and teams on the north took advantage of it by aggressively fixing the ropes to the summit (and beyond!).

However, an early omen occurred with the highly unusual death of a Sherpa on the north. He died from HAPE upon returning from higher altitude. The north side was rocked by this unexpected tragedy. Only 12 days later, climbers on the south and many around the world, were in a state of disbelief when three Sherpas were killed in the Khumbu Icefall. A serac collapsed while Sherpas were carrying loads to C1 killing three and injuring several others. In spite of desperate attempts to save their lives, the tons of ice did not allow that opportunity. A day of mourning was declared on April 22.

But climbers being climbers regrouped and refocused on their goals. Teams began going to the North Col and Camps 1 and 2 on the south as they worked hard to acclimatize their bodies to the thin air. With the exception of a few windy days, the weather continued to hold and Himex surprised everyone when 5 Sherpas made the earliest summit in years - April 30th. Meanwhile, similar to last year, the teams on the south took their time, perhaps due to the Icefall tragedy.

While "team" is often used in describing Everest climbing activity, the individuals are often what we remember most. And the names started to become familiar: Paul and Fi, Tomas, Thomas Webber, Mark Inglis, Rob and James, Ken Stalter, Blair and more. Their poignant dispatches brought us into their lives, their hopes and their dreams as they worked toward their goal of a summit. Many had special situations: blindness, amputee, youngest, oldest and some were just regular folks climbing a mountain. But each had a story and told it well. Collectively we all sat a little closer to our monitors as we read their dispatches each day.

The first "western" summits occurred on May 11 with Dave Watson and John Bagnuilo making the summit from the north. Many teams now followed and the rush was on. Rob and James became the youngest Britons to summit on May 17.

But a disturbing incident occurred that forecasted the next several weeks - Tomas Olsson disappeared after he and his teammates summited. They called from the summit telling about a difficult climb in sketchy weather and were starting their dream to ski down from the north. He and Tormod Granheim skied hundreds of meters until they came upon a steep rock cliff. They set a rappel and sadly Tomas died when it failed. His body was found at the bottom of the mountain a few days later.

The British Army attempted to climb the unclimbed West Ridge and was doing it in style. Their world-class website provided a multimedia smorgasbord of maps, videos, audio and reports as they executed their plan with military precision. I felt like I was in the war room with their language, specificity and discipline. It was in that spirit that the conditions were declared too dangerous and they called the whole thing off!

Another interesting story was that of Lance Trumbull and his Everest Peace Project. Lance had worked for several years to bring climbers of different nationalities and religions together for an Everest climb. On May 18, ten summited and brought a welcome message of cooperation and peace from the summit.

Climbers on the south finally reached the South Col and soon were standing on the summit. Leveraging the work of other teams fixing lines to the Col, Jagged Globe worked hard to set lines to the summit and claimed the first south summits of the season on May 17. Meanwhile Paul and Fi stayed the course and fought a variety of illnesses as they worked their way up and down the Hill. They set May 23rd as their summit day based on the weather forecasts and how they were feeling.

But deaths seemed to capture everyone's attention. A climber on the Lhotse Face who's death is still somewhat of a mystery. Three north climbers on separate days died during their descents. But it was the death of David Sharp that caught the world's attention. Media reported that "40 climbers passed the dying man huddled under a rock on their way to summit without providing aid." People were outraged and pundits weighed in on the risks of Everest and the responsibilities of climbers to one another. Even Sir Ed spoke up condemning the climbers and Everest expeditions in general.

But as with every mountaineering death I have ever followed, the initial reports proved very wrong. Climbers did stop and try to help Sharp. Two Sherpas gave up their oxygen and administered drugs to try to save him. They desperately tried to get him to his feet but all this was for not and he passed away.

I hope his death was not in vain for it did bring a new perspective to the differences between climbing on the north and the south. Perhaps the industry that benefits from all the paying climbers will take notice that they need to make some significant changes to how they run north side expeditions.

In the midst of this media frenzy, an Australian couple made some news of their own. Fi made the summit on May 23 (as predicted) but her husband Paul turned around at the south summit due to oxygen issues. Their website was flooded with comments of support, questions and praise. Paul tried again only 24 hours later but he was spent. Paul and Fi captured our imagination and inspired us all with their dedication and courage. It was a bit of good news in an otherwise sad season.

And the sadness continued. The south teams completed their summit bids with excellent success. Many of the majors put almost all their clients on top and returned safely - several had monster expeditions of 20 climbers. On the north a few teams remained including the DCXP/Project Himalaya and the 7 Summits team for Sight on Everest with Thomas Webber. They waited out another round of poor weather and made their bids. Tragedy again - Webber died as he climbed higher and within 12 hours another climber, Lincoln Hall was reported dead. That made 12 dead this season - the most since the 1996 disaster - and all in perfect weather.

But never discount the human spirit. The final teams making their bids found Hall alive! Dan Mazur reported finding him alive and stayed with him until help arrived. The 7 Summits team along with Jamie McGuinness, DCXP, mobilized a rescue and within a few hours 12 Sherpas were at 8700m. They brought him back down, including over the technical and dangerous Steps. Soon Hall, suffering from HAPE, was at the North Col and the next day to ABC. With the return to thicker air, drugs, rest, hydration he is reported as doing well in spite of severe frostbite. Amazing!

So, that is it. I don't think there are any more teams going for the summit on either side. I don’t have the final count but 2006 saw hundreds of summits of both sides. No new routes were opened. What started as a dangerous season with guns and politics turned more dangerous with altitude and illness. Death took precedent over summits. Climbers plotted their climbs with care and some with appropriate conservatism. The well established, long term stable operators on both sides did not see death of their clients. The independent climbers took the toll.

Mountaineering is a dangerous sport. It attracts people are fiercely independent and sometimes too stubborn for their own well being. But climbers are attracted to summits like bugs are to light. I am not sure what we learned in 2006 or even if there are lessons for the observers from climbing Everest. It is a sport like many others that people enter voluntary and understand the risks. If anything, it is clear that steps could be taken on the north to improve the safety for all climbers - guided, solo or independent. But should those steps be taken?

I for one say yes. Climbing deaths are always sad and devastating to the families. In some ways the sport has become accomstomized to them. Some of the most famous names in the sport are of the ones who died doing what they love: Hall, Fischer, Boukreev, Lowe, Lafaille. Some of these died trying to save others. Some worked to promote safety for their sport. Some were just climbers.

2006 has the opportunity to be a wake-up all for the industry the way 1996 was. In spite of a tremendous increase in guided expeditions the next ten years, fatalities went down.

How will the industry respond this time?