May 8, 2006 - Update on Climbers and Frost Bite
Lot's of progress to report on both sides as climbers take advantage of good weather. Note this good summary from the Project Himalayan team "...This morning the summit was clear and the sun was as strong as we’ve seen it. By 8:30 one of our Sherpas, Tarke, was sighted at 8,200 meters, just 100 meters shy of our highest camp on the mountain, in the ongoing effort to get our oxygen into place for our summit bid. In the meantime, we’re witnessing a remarkably early summit window and many climbers have been working hard to get into position for an early attempt to reach the top. " Just about says it all!
Most of the dispatches from the north tell of climbers reaching 7300m and spending nights at the North Col or even higher camps. Teams are plotting their summit bids as evidened by Scott on Everest in his recent dispatch "...Once we receive news of the weather window, we'll try and make the following moves ..... Day 1:move to ABC 6,300m, Day 2:rest ABC, Day 3:move to North Col 7,050m (Camp 1), Day 4:move to Camp 2 at 7,800m, Day 5:move to Camp 3 at 8,300m, Day 6:summit attempt 8,848m... "
Many of the dispatches comment on health since that is a key factor after 5 weeks on the Hill. Blair Falahey has the most discouraging comments I read "...Unfortunately I have had the runs,so did not get much sleep.I have also got an acid feeling in my chest which meant that I could not eat or drink much at all.A Mars bar and a little water was all I felt like." He does go on to say he is ABC resting and will go for the summit soon.
The Everest Peace Project has released another nice video. These guys are in strong competition with Sight on Everest team for best video production. Actually, take a few minutes to watch and turn your sound up!
And over on the south, the route is almost to the North Col according to IMG.
With AAI already spending a night at C3, they appear to be in the best
spot for the first summits followed by the main IMG team 
then AC. Once you spend
a night at C3, you normally return to BC, rest a few days and then go back
up - about an 8 day turn around before the actual summit bid.
A few days ago, basecamp MD reported on a case of frostbite. This is a serious condition to be sure. This picture was of a friend of a friend who was on the north side in 2003 and he took his glove off for only a few moments to assist in a rescue and - well the picture tells the story. The issue is that our bodies are remarkable in protecting our organs (heart, lung, kidneys, etc.) at the expense of our extremities (fingers, toes, nose, etc.). So when a harsh situation like sub zero temperatures is combined with strong winds, the fingers and toes are usually the first to go - even if the exposure is for a brief moment. This is why it is so important to learn how to manuplate carabineers and ropes with gloves and mitts on and avoid taking them off - even for a moment.
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