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« May 29, 2006 - High Winds stop progress | Main | May 20 -2006 - Teams moving up on the South and West Ridge »

May 20, 2006 - Who's left?

Last night saw more south summits with AAI (13) on top and IMG putting more of their team on the summit (13 thus far) with more to come from them. Brenda Walsh and Danuru Sherpa on the IMG team made the round trip from South Col to Summit and back in 8 hours- an amazing time for a westerner!

On the south a few teams are positioned to go for it at almost any moment including Paul and Fi and the team from Mountain LInk. Mountain LInk did post a report that several of their team were returning from C3 including "Chris and JJ" I assume this is Chris Balsinger, the only client and financier for this team. He was going for his last of the 7 summits so it appears he will not make it. A shame but somehow I bet he is OK with it.

Will Cross, also on the south, has kept a low profile this year on his third attempt. The diabetic is reported to be at the South Col so should be going to the summit tonight - weather permitting.

Two large teams are left on the north. Both make comments on the dangers on the north. Harry Kikstra's sight on Everest team of 24 reports they will go for the summit the morning of the 21st "... so far we count 10 or 11 dead climbers for 2006, while many people have not even started their summit bid. Too many take Everest not seriously and notable is that quite a few fatalities are from low-cost, budget expeditions, without proper sherpa support. It makes us think a lot ..."

Project Himalaya/DXCP is at ABC "...Many groups have been going earlier this year and there have been a much high incident of accidents so far. We are hopeing to find a little later, warmer, less windy and safer window to summit in. Its a hard game waiting though. We did get a lot better forecast for next week that we will be watching. From here in ABC we are 4 days away from the summit once we leave."

On the north it must look like a Yak sale with hundreds of yaks hauling barrels of gear and waste down the mountain and valley. Remember that all human waste is now carried out of the large base camps in an effort maintain the mountain. This is true on both sides. Himex notes the exit in the last newsletter of the season.

With the mountain starting to get quiet a few thoughts of those left. The north side still has over 50 climbers it appears working towards the summit. On the south, it is far less In fact maybe less than 20 including Paul and Fi. This is a good new, bad news scenario. The good news is the route is well established with strong steps kicked in at the most difficult spots. The line is obviously fixed. But there has been a lot of stress on those lines and anchors so climbers must give an extra tug and visually inspect suspect anchors. There will not be crowds clogging up the route at the difficult sections but there will not be extra climbers and Sherpas available to help in an emergency. So the last waves must be very committed as well as prepared to be more self sufficient that the early or teams in the middle.

My best to all of them.

This has been one of the most deadly years on Everest in a decade. I will take a look at those deaths and explore what went wrong and what to consider about future Everest expeditions next week. Also a preview of my own adventure to Broad Peak and K2 starting next month.
http://www.alanarnette.com



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