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May 16, 2006 (second posting) - A Southern Push

It may seem that all the action has been on the north this year and to some extent it has. No climber has summited from the south or west yet and it seems like everyday we read about another team making it to the North Col and then to the summit. Well that is about to change. IMG notes that ropes are fixed above the South Col to the Balcony, the bottom of the ridge leading to the South Summit. Jagged Globe is at the South Col today and reports that they are gong for the summit tonight so they could be the first summits of the season on the south and ahead of the crowd.The three major commercial expeditions of International Mountain Guides (IMG), Alpine Ascents (AAI) and Adventure Consultants (AC) are all between C1 and the South Col preparing for summit bids Thursday or Friday. Mountain Link is also at C2. This has the potential of being a traffic jam!

But all three of these teams are lead by professional and have some of the most seasoned Sherpas in Nepal. Well before it gets to this point in the expedition, the team leaders sit down and discussing summit strategy to try to avoid having everyone clogging up the Hill on the same dark night. Yet in spite of this teamwork, it seems to happen like that every year. Reports come in of 50 climbers moving up between the Balcony and the South Summit. Tales of climbers getting frostbite waiting for a slow or hurt climber to clear out of the way. But somehow it all works.

I am especially excited for Paul and Fi Adler. By now you know this impressive young couple from Australia by their excellent dispatches and pictures. They are on the IMG permit but with their own Sherpas. They have been cooking all their own high altitude food and making their own decisions about acclimization schedules. We have watched Paul suffer through a chest infection and now a sore throat while we have listened to Fi be interviewed by the ABC. They have unselfishly shared their pains, joys and excitement almost everyday for the past six weeks. Well, now they are off to the summit of Mt. Everest. They have trained for over a year for this week and by my estimate are ready. It will be tough for sure. But they are strong, smart and have wonderful attitudes. Their Sherpas are experienced and by now have created a lifetime bond with one another. But you know - for me - the summit for them has become the icing on the cake. I am so impressed with their smiles, optimism and courage that they have already benefited from the Everest experience. That said - go get that summit!

Meanwhile over on the north more teams are moving up to go for their summits in a few days. Everest Peace Project has moved to Camp 2 at 7600m. Lance published another nice video following the skyline from the North Col to C2 and showing some climbers off in the distance. Project Himalaya/DCXP have split into two teams with one moving to the North Col today and the other to follow in a day or so. They are targeting a summit bid next week. The Sight on Everest Team with Thomas Weber, the blind climber attempting the north side summit, are down at Taschi a small town at 4200m. They have suffered through several health challenges and are resting up for probable end of the month attempt.

Rob and James climbing with Adventure Peaks are trying to be the youngest Brits to summit. They are reported at the top camp at 8300m so should be going for the summit bid now. The EVERESTMAX team has an interesting set of satistics on their members showing weight, heart rate and other functions. I have not written too much about them but their mission is " ... expedition aims to be the first team to complete the ascent from the shores of the Dead Sea to the summit of Everest." They are now on their summit bid.

Now that Himex has completed their mission (mission accomplished?) and they fixed the ropes to the summit and beyond, I wonder of they are going to leave them there or take them down since there is still a lot of traffic on the north. The deal was that each climber would pay Himex $100 to use the lines but earlier reports noted that Brice was having a hard time collecting his money.

The Army continues to march on "The Summit Team has now left Base Camp and is making its way towards  Camp 1 as planned. It will then continue up through the successive camps until it reaches the lower slopes of the Summiot Pyramid. If all goes well, the team hopes to be standing on the summit at the weekend."

Check this site a lot over the next day or two since there will be a lot of activity!

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