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May 13, 2006 - Wind, Delays and more Summits

What a difference a few days make! Climbers on both sides knew they were experiencing a great stretch of great weather but all good things must come to an end - apparently.

The film crew on the Himex team have been allowed to break their oath of secrecy and reveal that high winds have delayed their attempt until today, Saturday, or maybe Sunday. This excerpt was dated today, May 13

"... the teams made it to camp 2 and 3 respectively, but had to spend 2 nights at these camps as the winds were higher in the morning than expected. Today they headed up to camps 3 and 4, ready for the first summit attempt tonight." They also report on a wealth of cameras, microwave links, video monitors and more space age technology that will be used to record their summit bid. Remember that Mark Inglis, the double amputee, is on this team. Take a read of the Tigress Productions Blog for more on all this excitement on the north side.

The Tigress report also noted something interesting about the Himex Sherpas fixing the ropes on the north "... fix ropes all the way to the summit (they reached there on 30th April, which Russ thinks is a record – and for good measure fixed another 100 meters down the south side, so anyone coming up there will get a surprise)." Well, the Korean team must have either known this or been surprised as they summited from the North on Thursday and then descended on the south side. The "traverse" is unusual but not unheard of. Last year Piers Buck attempted the same feat except from the south but was thwarted by the worst weather in decades. In any event, congratulations to Mr. Park and team on their summit!

Over on the south the IMG team is positioned at C2 and, weather permitting, should go for the summit on Tuesday or Wednesday. Mountain LInk is back from their holiday in Katmandu and are looking at the Friday the 19th for a summit day as is the Adventure Consultants team. It looks Fi and Paul may be going for the summit next weekend.

Scott Woolums (Project Himalaya) just posted a nice video of climbing on the north side from the North Col to Camp 2 at 25,000'. Very nicely done!

The British Army's West Ridge Team executing with - well, um, what do you call it? - military precision - is set for the summit "...With fine weather on its side and all the teams set in place, the EWR 2006 expedition is now 24 hours ahead of schedule. Support Team A is currently forging ahead, breaking the trail, clearing ropes of snow and dropping off essential gear. They are closely followed by Andy Nelson's team whose job it is ..."

An update on the climber who died near the yellow band this week, he was Lhotse climber Pavel Kaney. Details are still unclear on exactly what happened. My sincere condolences to his friends and family.

http://www.alanarnette.com


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