April 24, 2006 - Ropes fixed above C1 on North and Camp 1 overview on the South
After what seems like ages, the real climbing has started on both sides. Himalayan Experience
reports their Sherpas have fixed the rope above camp 1 and climbed to
8300m
and their team has made a round trip (not overnight) to the North Col. IMG and Paul
and Fi are at Camp 1 without problems as is Adventure Consultants. Alpine Ascents
International (AAI) is already to Camp 2 and reports lots of traffic between C1 and
C2 as Sherpas ferry tents, food, fuel, oxygen bottles and other gear higher up the
Hill.
For many climbers this is the first "taste" of Everest. While you still cannot actually see Everest until you go another quarter mile up the Western Cwm, you do have a spectacular view of Pumori and other 7000m hills. I have already described climbing the Icefall so here is a description of the last steps to Camp 1.
Once you top the 'Fall there is a large flat expanse of snow. It looks easy but
you are tired. Normally climbers take a rest and take some food and water before
they continue. You cannot see the actually camp site nor tents from here but you
leave anticipating a quick walk. Is always a surprise how meandering the route is
since you soon discover that the area is filled with crevasses. This is the end of
the Western Cwm and the initial section of the Icefall just before the glacier drops
over a steep rock fall to create Khumbu Icefall. Of course all this is hidden by
hundreds of feet of ice so all you see is snow, ice and deep cracks.
There are normally five to 8 ladders in this area along with a fixed rope. Climbers
are told to always attach themselves to the rope and be extra careful in this area.
There is a tendency to relax your guard but now is not the time. The walk has a gradual
climb but you soon find yourself breathing hard and looking
for the Camp. Anywhere from half to a full hour later you make it. The sight of yellow,
red or green tents on the pure white snow is amazing. But even more so is the Cwm
unfolding in front of you. While not all of it is visible, you can see Nuptse on
your right, Lhotse ahead and Everest on your left. Most climbers seem not to notice
all this since they are focused on getting into their tents and having a brew and
some food. Normally each tent prepares their own food at this camp so it starts to
feel like a real climb at last.
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