Three "IMG expedition leader Mark Tucker reports that a big collapse in the icefall today has claimed the lives of three Sherpas, including one from the IMG team. The accident occurred partway up the icefall shortly after dawn when several large towers of ice toppled over."

I took these pictures of similar fins in 2002. The track, unavoidably, went right by it and we always picked up our pace regardless of how tired we were. I only know one name at this point, Ang Phimjo Sherpa (Phortse). My sincere condolences go out to the families and friends of these courageous Sherpas.

If you have had the opportunity climb in Nepal, you probably have Sherpa friends. It is not unusual for climbers to sponsor Sherpas to visit their home counties, help put their children through higher education or contribute to pressing medical needs. These relationships are lifetime and not taken for granted by either side. So when we hear of a fallen Sherpa our thoughts immediately go to our friends in Nepal and their families.

I want to also comment on the impact this has on the climbers. It is amazing how fast you grow close to the Sherpas - and your other teammates. As I have said before, the Sherpas, cooks and porters smile easily, are always willing to give you help, will go out of their way to make you comfortable and never say a negative word. This is not to say that are not human and have bad days like all of us, but they have such a caring and gentle nature that you may never know when that bad day occurs!

The mood at basecamp is quite somber right now. For a good feel, please read what Fi Adler has written in her dispatch. Climbers tend to become more introspective than normal and speak in quieter tones. They often look up at the Icefall with a new sense of respect - and - fear. The dangers are now more real than ever and the risk they are taking are measurable in terms of human life.

Yet they will go on. That is why they are climbers. They understood the risks and know the dangers. They will take a few extra precautions but they will get up early one morning, strap on the crampons, zip up the jumper and climb. That is who they are.

With the tragedy in the Icefall, I expect little to no movement over the day or so as the Icefall Doctors rebuild the route in the collapsed area. There is other news of team movement but I think it can wait for now.

Update

The Nepal Ministry of Culture, Tourism & Civil Aviation issued an official release with the names of the Sherpas who died in the icefall on Friday April 21: "Ang Phinjo Sherpa, aged 50, of Khunjung VDC ward # 9 Phortse, Solu Khumbu Nepal, Lhakkpa Tseri Sherpa of Mende, Dawa Temba Sherpa of Thamo are presumed dead."

Saturday has been declared an official day of mourning and there will be no climbing.