April 13, 2006 - Progress: Boarders and Routes
Just like last year, progress is faster on the north side. Ken
Slater reports that his team may go for the North Col,
23000', in the next few days. This is equivalent to C3
on the south. Himalayan Experience's Sherpas are fixing
rope for all teams on the north this year trying to prevent
the confusion and controversy that occurred in 2005. It
is actually a real bargain. They charge the other teams
only $100 per climber for his Sherpas to fix and maintain
the route. Incredible deal if you think about it, especially
for the independent climbers.
Another climber has caught my attention. Mark Inglis of New Zealand is a double amputee and is climbing on the north. He has 8000m experience with a summit of Cho Oyu in 2004. HIs dispatches are very poignant as he attempts to stand on top of the world. His site is Legs on Everest.
Over on the south, the route (ladders and rope) in the Icefall is now established per Paul Adler's dispatch today but not yet across the Western Cwm to C2. He and Fi are debating their plan of whether to go to C1 and back BC or on to C2. This is always up for debate but the "normal" schedule is to climb to the top of the Icefall and return to BC. Then climb to C1, walk a bit into the Western Cwm and return to C1/BC. Next is a foray to C1 and to C2 for a few nights. If everyone feels good, perhaps a trip to C3 on the Lhotse Face. But all this is dependent on weather and health. It is still way too early to have a firm schedule. However, the first trips up the Icefall in 2005 were on April 14 and April 13 in 2002, so they are right on schedule.
It is interesting how all the expeditions arrive at different times often as much as a week or ten days apart but seem to start their climbs about the same time. IMG has been at BC since April 3rd yet Adventure Consultants just arrived a couple days ago. Now it looks like they will both be in the Icefall at the same time. The benefit of arriving early is you get a chance to acclimatize better, get your mind focused on the task at hand as well as work out any bugs you caught on the trek in. On the other hand, every day at these altitudes takes a toll on the body. My preference would be to arrive in BC and have about 4 days to recoup then tackle the Icefall. In any event, the hard work is about to begin. Climb On!
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