Will 2006 be a repeat of 2005? Last year the weather was so bad that climbers had the latest first summit in decades on the south. This year has been completely different with excellent days allowing the IceFall Doctors to do their work. All that changed on Monday with waist deep snow falling on both sides of Everest. Climbers are stuck where they are. Teams are stalled in Base Camp and at C1 on the South. The North side seemed to be spared but there is weather all over Everest.

Paul Adler reports "... We have nine people stuck up at camp 1, but they are doing fine. Scott Wollums and Project HImalaya is stuck in Lukla. Already one of the last teams to go for BC on the south the comments "... Down in Lukla now waiting for flights out. The weather is absolutely terrible. Yesterday morning we woke to 6 inches or more of snow in Namche. And Jagged GLobe gave these details "... One other American team, the Polish crew, and two Korean teams round out the count up there at C1 at the moment and after a last ditch effort by Jagged Globe and the Polish team to dig up ropes again this past hour, they’ve again called off efforts and turned back to camp 1 for a third night. "

Even the British Army has retreated as they climb the West Ridge "...After the climbers made good progress over the weekend towards the location where Camp 3 will be set up, the weather has closed in again. A night and day of heavy snowfall, with no prospect of improvement at least until tomorrow, has forced the Team to retreat to Tilman's Camp for yet another period of waiting."

Meanwhile, Thomas Olsson - SKi Everest 2006 - took advantage of the time to do some, well, skiing! They visited nearby Shuguang Feng, 6622m, and "... Then came the hellish descent. If you have any idea of the term kinetic energy, you will have no problem understanding the nature of our concerns, negotiating our way through the scree-slope."

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Posted by Alan Arnette at 08:33 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

With so many teams climbing the IceFall yesterday and today for the first time, I thought I would describe what is it like to actually climb the Khumbu Icefall. First you start before sunrise to minimize the movement of the glacier heating up with sunrise and mid-day heat. This means a 3:00AM wake-up call from the Sherpas. The first time you are probably already awake with anticipation or just because you are still not used to sleeping at 17.500'. You get dressed in all your long underwear, warmth layer and finally Gortex to protect you from the wind. You stuff some food into your pack along with an extra pair of gloves if this is just a quick trip to the top. If it is to Camp 1 for the night, add your sleeping bag and maybe some extra layers but not too much.

Eat as much as you can and top off your water bottles (not hydration packs since they freeze) and start heading towards the icefall. Depending on where your Base Camp is located, this can take 10 to 30 minutes to reach the last flat section before the climbing actually starts. At this point you put your harness on (checking yours and your partner's webbing to make sure it is doubled back for safety). Attach your crampons to your boots and you can't help but look up.

The first section is pretty much a continuous climb that ungulates wildly. Sometimes it is a 60 degree climb, others a more gentle 20 degree. After an hour in a "normal" year you reach the first ladder. For most climbers this is a moment of truth. You can prepare, read, talk and dream about this moment but when it comes time to actually placing your cramponed boot on the first rung of a ladder crossing a crevasse that is 100' deep ... well I think you get the idea.

But you did it. And you do it again and again and again since you will make at least 4 round trips on your summit bid - maybe 6. Your breathing is heavy and labored the first couple of trips up. Maybe from the altitude or maybe from the stress but you breath heavily through your mouth and welcome any stalls up front. Even though there is a thin nylon rope that is attached to your harness with a metal carabiners, you think about falling. Most section of the Icefall are not knife-edged. They are on large expanses of relatively flat snow and ice. But there are these huge seracs that teeter above you threatening to fall at any moment. And then you hear it - a loud crash. Instinctively you lower your shoulders and raise your arms over your head. You just heard an avalanche in the Icefall or maybe one of those towering seracs falling. More than likely it was off your route since the Icefall Doctors are careful to avoid the South side of the Icefall where most of these crashes happen but you just don't know.

Climb, more climbing and then you reach a flat section known as the football field. A large area of perfectly flat hard packed snow. Take a break, drink some water, slow your breathing and eat something. Congratulations you are about a third of the way up and it has taken at least two hours. You sit on your pack and enjoy the view. It should be sunrise but you are on the West side of the Icefall and the sun does not hit this are until 9:00 at the earliest. It is cold. If the wind is blowing you feel very cold. Pull up your hood, add a down parka if you have one and focus on eating and drinking. Times up, get going. More of the same for another two or three hours. Sherpas are now returning from the previous day of load carrying to the high camps. You have already been passed like you were standing still by Sherpas making carries to Camp 1 and Camp 2 earlier in the morning. They had loads that made you feel like a wimp. You struggle with your 20lb load and they scoot pass you with their 60lbs. Your respect for these special people grow not because of their strength but because of their completeness.


It took you five or six hours but you made it to the top. The final section always involves steeper ladders and sharper grades so you suck it in and make the climb. And you are there. A completely flat expanse of snow that reveals the Western Cwm. Oh my God, I made it! Camp 1 is another half to full hour from here but you are through the Icefall. You cannot help but stop and look back. Even though you can only see a few hundred yards of the 'Fall you see every step, every ladder, every climb in your mind.

Congratulations you've just climbed the Khumbu Icefall on the South side of Mt. Everest. You on your way to the summit!

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Posted by Alan Arnette at 08:23 AM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

The teams have made good progress on both sides over the past few days. Let's start with the north.

Ken Stalter reports a

visit to the north col at 23,000 yesterday. He comments "...It was a great plenty just to go up and back in one day ... It's cold and windy at this altitude.  We are going back to base camp to recover for the next five days." 

On the south, Mark Tuker of IMG reports that their Sherpas have established C2, well at least they have a tent there. He comments on the race to get there"... Apparently several other teams also sent their Sherpas up today, and everyone was lined up above Camp 1 when the last ladder was dropped into place by the "Icefall doctors" (the Sherpas that build the Icefall route). The race was on! We had Danuru, our speedster, in position to claim prime real estate at Camp 2 for our big Weatherport tents that we will be erecting there."

You may think it is strange to "race" up the mountain but there are a couple of factors in play. First, the Sherpas are naturally competitive. In a good natured sense they compete with one another to see who can get camps established first, it is an honor to fix the ropes high up and of course to summit! But also, there is a practical side to all this. In spite of what seems like a huge area in the Western CWM, the area for C1 and C2 are quite limited due to avalanche and crevasse dangers. So the best spots are few and the first team there gets their choice. That said, year after year, the same teams seem to get the same spots. Sometimes they want to be close to the start of the track, other times away from the crowds.

I spoke of schedules last time and it appears the south teams are adopting the following: 2 nights at C1, 3 nights at C2 and back to BC for some rest. This is the standard schedule to allow their bodies to adjust as gradually as possible without taking too much time at altitude. We can expect to see some problems however with individuals not adjusting as well as others, lung infections, and the realization of what they are doing. While C1 and C2 are situated in the relatively flat Western CWM, it is still a harsh environment at 21,000 - cold, hot and windy!!

Finally, an update from Paul and Fi. If you have been following their dispatches you know that Paul has been fighting a sore throat and a lung infection. Well now it has spread to Fi. They are both being treated by Dr. Luanner Freer of the Everest Base Camp Medical Clinic. The basic issue with these problems is a combination of the cold air, exposure to lots of people, reduced immune systems due to the altitude, lack of sleep and a thousand other little things. It seems this happens every year and sometimes spreads through the base camps in spite of the best precautions.

In addition to feeling lousy, physically, you battle the mind games. You know you only have until late May to climb the Hill and everyday that passes without time high up to acclimization makes your chances of summiting smaller. That said, year in, year out teams spend anywhere from 5 to 10 days killing time after their acclimization schedule has been completed waiting for a good weather window on the summit. The best course of action is exactly what Paul and Fi are doing: get plenty of rest, stay warm, and maintain good spirits. I am sure a message of support will do them good. You can contact them via their website.

Posted by Alan Arnette at 07:38 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

The Sight on Everest and Everest Peace Project teams have now crossed the boarder and are finally on their way to the north side basecamp. It has been difficult for them to get out of Katmandu. Just like last year, progress is faster on the north side. Ken Slater reports that his team may go for the North Col, 23000', in the next few days. This is equivalent to C3 on the south. Himalayan Experience's Sherpas are fixing rope for all teams on the north this year trying to prevent the confusion and controversy that occurred in 2005. It is actually a real bargain. They charge the other teams only $100 per climber for his Sherpas to fix and maintain the route. Incredible deal if you think about it, especially for the independent climbers.

Another climber has caught my attention. Mark Inglis of New Zealand is a double amputee and is climbing on the north. He has 8000m experience with a summit of Cho Oyu in 2004. HIs dispatches are very poignant as he attempts to stand on top of the world. His site is Legs on Everest.

Over on the south, the route (ladders and rope) in the Icefall is now established per Paul Adler's dispatch today but not yet across the Western Cwm to C2. He and Fi are debating their plan of whether to go to C1 and back BC or on to C2. This is always up for debate but the "normal" schedule is to climb to the top of the Icefall and return to BC. Then climb to C1, walk a bit into the Western Cwm and return to C1/BC. Next is a foray to C1 and to C2 for a few nights. If everyone feels good, perhaps a trip to C3 on the Lhotse Face. But all this is dependent on weather and health.  It is still way too early to have a firm schedule. However, the first trips up the Icefall in 2005 were on April 14 and April 13 in 2002, so they are right on schedule.

It is interesting how all the expeditions arrive at different times often as much as a week or ten days apart but seem to start their climbs about the same time. IMG has been at BC since April 3rd yet Adventure Consultants just arrived a couple days ago. Now it looks like they will both be in the Icefall at the same time. The benefit of arriving early is you get a chance to acclimatize better, get your mind focused on the task at hand as well as work out any bugs you caught on the trek in. On the other hand, every day at these altitudes takes a toll on the body. My preference would be to arrive in BC and have about 4 days to recoup then tackle the Icefall. In any event, the hard work is about to begin. Climb On!

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Posted by Alan Arnette at 07:11 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

The base camps are well established on both sides now. But not all is well on the Hill and the area. Himalayan Experience reported in a lengthy dispatch, their first of the season, that a Sherpa died of HAPE after fixing ropes up to the North Col. Also, there are numerous reports of increasing violence and unrest in Katmandu that are preventing climbers from reaching their base camps. So another rough start to the spring season on Everest. This is similar to last year but

without the weather problems when several climbers died early in the season. It is encouraging that Himalayan Experience is already fixing line so high (7000m) on the north side.

On the South, the time is being spent with teams establishing their camps and then returning back down valley, sometimes as low as Periche. They spend a night or two seeing off their trekking friends or just trying to stay fit before returning to BC. Most teams have had their Pujua at this point. Adventure Consultants, Mountain Madness are in BC as is Jagged Globe and AAI who made their first climb in the icefall today. Paul and Fi, independent climbers but using IMG's logistics, report the Icefall Doctor's should have the ladders in by today so look for the early south climbers to start moving to Camp 1 tomorrow.

For something a little different than the "normal" north and south side climbs, pay close attention to the British Army's West Ridge climb. The have a nice website full of video, pictures, etc and their reports are quite human thus far! They report fixing line to the 6400m level thus far. From their site their mission is "The Main Team’s ascent of Everest is seen as unfinished Army business. The team includes soldiers and officers from both the British and Territorial Armies. They are attempting to be the first British team to ascend Everest by one of its toughest and most dangerous routes: The West Ridge. Following in the steps of previously unsuccessful Army expeditions, 21 of the Army’s finest mountaineers will be using siege tactics."

A little more on the fallen Sherpa, Tuk Bahadur Thapa Masar. The male Sherpas (yes, there are female Sherpas - Sherpanis) who work on Everest are the breadwinners for their families. They often depend on the expedition work to make a good living in a country with an average income of less than US$300 a year per family. When a Sherpa dies, it puts their family is a tremendously difficult situation. The only good news about a situation like this one is the personal integrity of men like Russel Brice. As the owner of Himalayan Experience, he has employed the same Sherpas, cooks, porters and other local staff for his Himalayan climbs for years. They are as much of his family as his own blood relatives. When something like this happens it hits everyone very hard. Brice will take care of all his obligations to Masar's family and probably much, much more. This is part of what drive such tremendous loyalty between the Operators and the Sherpas. I know that Guy Cotter and Eric Simonson approach their teams the same way.

Posted by Alan Arnette at 09:53 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

We are finally getting enough teams on both sides to start getting some good dispatches. Himalayan Experience is in Lhasa. They tend to be kind of secretive about what they do since they are the big gorilla on the north but I assume they have another monster team this year. Last year they had about 30 climbers!  Thomas Olson has a great picture he took as he headed towards the north side of Everest - the huge plume is a stark reminder of what lies ahead- take a look! It seems the trek to the north side is "interesting" this year with Rob and James witnessing some small arms fire between Maoists and Blair Falahey tells a story of an altercation with the Chinese Police "...i was then forced to stand there as a 18 yr old overweigh chinese policeman screamed at me for a few minutes" - for taking pictures! Blair is at Zhangmu, a bleak "town" on the board with Neal. It is curious that the big, modern white building you see from the Nepalese side is the only one of it's kind in the entire town since the rest are shanties on mud streets just like in Nepal. I guess "keeping up appearances" is important everywhere!

Back on the south side, more teams are trekking through the Khumbu on their way to BC. The Jagged Globe team is about half-way there with a stop at the Thyangboche Monastery as is Adventure Consultants and AAI. The Mountain Link team is also making good progress. They stopped in Pengboche for a ceremony with Lama Geishe. Paula and Fi did the same as do seemingly hundreds of climbers each year in the Khumbu. I have had two pujas with Lama Geishe.

Before you think this is some kind of ruse, let me tell you a little about the Lama. He is a large man - not physically but in spirit. You feel in awe when he enters a room. His simile is huge and his eyes are clear. He looks you straight in the eye as if he is looking into your soul. As he shakes your hand, you feel it. Not as in strength but as in spirits touching. He laughs easily and puts his arm around your shoulder with confidence and affection. His ceremonies or pujas take about an hour. You sit on a blanket covered bench while the Lama sits at the end of the room. This is his personal home which is ordinary for Sherpas, teahouse owners, farmers and ... Lamas. No pretense here.

His wife and daughter serve hot tea along with small cookies. Lama Geishe makes small talk and proudly shows pictures of climbers he has blessed on his wall behind him. There are few windows in the room so the sun does not come in. It is cold so he wears a thick crimson robe and perhaps another blanket. The climbers are comfortable in their down coats. Once he feels like he knows you he starts the ceremony by chanting prayers while swinging a brass container with smoking incense . He rings a brass cymbal and pours holy water into a container. Soon he takes a pinch of rice and throws into the air. After a while he asks for each climber's name. He repeats your name in a heavy accent while looking you in the eye. He writes something on a card and gives it to you along with a red string which he ties around your neck. He asks for you to open the card on the summit. Sometimes he prays for your safety, other times it is for the mountain Gods to be pleased, and sometimes it is for the mundane and ordinary such as keeping the mountain clean.

Actually it does not matter what he prays for, you feel his presence knowing that you experienced something special and that he will be thinking about all the climbers throughout the remainder of the season.

The IMG team is all settled in base camp and their trekkers have left. Will Cross has arrived in BC. Paul and Fi took their first steps on ladders. And it seems that the icefall doctors will take a few more days to get the route in to C1. So expect it to be kind of quiet until Tuesday of next week as the teams all arrive and get settled in at base camp on both sides. Then they will start moving higher.

Posted by Alan Arnette at 02:46 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBacks (0)

April 7, 2005 - First Pujas Many teams are arriving in base camp on the South side. Thus far IMG is there. Mountain Link, Mountain Madness and several more teams should arrive today. It will be a busy weekend in base camp.
Before anyone starts climbing the icefall a Lama comes to base camp and conducts a Puja (click for video). I am sure all the expeditions will report on their experiences because it is one the the most memorable and impactful events of climbing in the Himalayas. Some expeditions have already had several Pujas but the one at base camp has the most impact. This is one of the only times where all the Sherpas, cooks, guides, climbers and trekkers are all together.

I remember my first Puja at base camp and reported it like this in 2002 "... In the center of each camp is a stone alter about 5 feet high with an 8 foot wooden pole rising from the center. From the top of this pole prayer flags are strung in 7 (always an odd number) different directions covering all the tents in our camp. It was at this alter that we had our Puja on Wednesday morning. A Lama walked in from a nearby village to perform the blessing for all our safety on the mountain. We placed our climbing tools against the alter. It was a very special event. Fir boughs are burned covering the camp in a dense smoke while the Lama, our Sidar and Climbing Sidar chant prayers. Occasionally, rice is thrown into the air. Everyone involved in our expedition attends the Puja and takes the ceremony very seriously."

The following year and on Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu it was the same and yet different. It was during the Puja that it became clear to me that climbing in Nepal was special in many way but the most was the spiritual aspect and the influence of the Sherpas, Lamas and all the Nepalese people. It was a feeling and a lesson I have never forgotten.

Posted by Alan Arnette at 10:19 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Anyone there? The vast majority of the teams are now on their way to the base camps on the north and south sides. Dispatches are starting come in on a regular basis. I must admit that the ones written by the climbers and not the organizers are the best. My favorites thus far: Paul and Fi Adler, Lance Trumbull, Blair Falahey and Ken Stalter. The commercial guide's dispatches are excellent for progress, coordination, weather, etc. but they often lack the emotion and wonderment that comes from individual climbers. Mountain LInk has gone crazy with their video camera! The latest is one of them eating steak in Katmandu. Let's hope we don't see the full experience.

Trekking by the numbers

The IMG dispatch has a nice picture of the tote board for the number of trekkers in the Solo Khumbu region of Everest since 1998. It ranges from a low of 13,786 in post 911 2002 to a high of 25,291 in 2000. This does not include climbers which could add as much as 1000 more per year.

Remember the Fallen Climbers

Every climber on the south side will pass a very sacred place. It is a series of memorials to climbers who have died on Everest. But it mostly for the fallen Sherpas. I hope you will read in all the dispatches about the contribution the Sherpas make to every climber on Everest, regardless of whether they were hired by them or not. The Sherpas are the unsung heroes year in, year out. The tireless carry loads, fix ropes, pitch tents, carry oxygen bottles and more. But it is also what is not seen that makes them so special. Every year a few western climbers will have their lives saved by the Sherpas - and not the ones on their team. The Sherpas watch over all the climbers and are the first to send the word of a climber in trouble. While it is a serious mistake to believe you can assume a Sherpa will bail you out if you are in serious trouble, it is common for them to do just that.  Sadly it is also common for them never to get any recognition and sometimes not even a thank-you.

The memorial below Lobuje is a stark reminder to the price they pay.  A series of rock alters represent the fallen. It is a clear reminder of the dangers ahead. Fi Adler noted in her dispatch this week "... A couple of hours from our destination, we passed through a memorial spot with tombstones and manny stones to commemorate those climbers and sherpas that have died on Everest. A beautiful, peaceful place, but a very somber moment that was not lost on all, especially the climbers."

Well said Fi.

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Posted by Alan Arnette at 02:45 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)