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March 30, 2006

Speeds, Feeds and Satellite Phones, Trekking the Khumbu, Third Times a Charm

Speeds, Feeds and Satellite Phones

Based on some early dispatches, this year on Everest may be the most technology rich experience ever. There are the normal written updates with some nice pictures but video, audio and maps seem to be in vogue. There are several systems used by the climbers ranging from homemade ones to solid commercial systems. ExplorersWeb.com has improved their Contact3  Expedition System and it is probably the most used by the larger commercial guide companies. Their website shows a cost of $3200 for a complete system consisting of a digital camera, PDA, satellite phone and their custom software. Other expeditions are using their own creations as demonstrated by Paul and Fi.

A couple of early standouts, technology wise, include Mountain LInk's video of driving the wild streets of Katmandu and Lance Trumbull's Everest Peace Project and his video plus audio posting. Maps also seem to be the "in" thing this year. The Contact3 expedition software provided this feature last year but it has improved. With Google Earth, some sites are using it to show precisely where the climbers are. An excellent example is on EveryTrail.net.

But while all this makes it pleasing to the eye, I always appreciate the willingness of the climbers to open their hearts and minds to all of us watching. It is the courage to write about their fears, failings, dreams and successes that capture my imagination each year.

Treking the Khumbu



Many Everest expeditions have trekkers who join them. They walk
the same trails as the climbers and spend a night or two in base
camp. I have done this walk both as a climber and a trekker. As
a climber, your mind becomes increasingly focused on the task ahead.
Every sight of Everest is like shot of adrenalin that causes your
heart to miss a beat with excitement and anticipation. You are
aware of your climbing and trekking mates but you also spend a
lot of time walking quietly in deep personal thoughts.








As a trekker, you can be completely and totally overwhelmed.
For many people this is their first visit to Nepal and the Himalayas.
The scenery is stunning. Every turn of the trail brings a new view
that is better than the one before. You chat away with excitement
and wonderment. Even the Yak poop on the trail is exciting! But
you also look at the climbers in a different way than you did back
home or at the hotel in Katmandu. You begin to understand what
they are trying to do and your respect grows. Deep inside every
trekker, they wonder if they could do it. Some come back and try - like I did.

Third Times a Charm
Will Cross has started his dispatches on his site. I will be pulling
for Will for a number of reasons. First is his goal to be the first
climber with diabetes to trek to both poles plus compete the 7
Summits. I saw him on a documentary filmed by Ben Webster of their
2004 Everest attempt and he seems like a nice guy. But mostly I
am pulling for him since this is his third attempt! Some people
may call him foolhardy or a peak bagger or worse. But I call him
focused, determined and courageous. He knows what he knows after
his other two attempts. He knows how much it hurts, how his body
cries to go down, how his mind plays games. He knows all this and
he goes back. Climb on Will!

March 26, 2006

Everest 2006: Teams in transit, Did we forget something? Maoist activity, A long season ahead

More teams in transitFirst view of Everest from the trail below Namache Bazar

The pilgrimage continues to Nepal and Tibet with teams from AAI, IMG, 7summits, the British West Ridge, Tomas Olsson and more on their way. Paul and Fi Adler have been quiet prolific with their excellent dispatches thus far. It is fun to read about their interaction with the kids on the trek out from Lukla, the regular Saturday market in Namache and of course their first view of Mount Everest. This last mention is of note since it is often the first full view climbers get as they head towards base camp. There is one small opportunity to see Everest from the trail below Namache but you have know precisely where to look between the trees. I missed it on my first three trips there. But it is the first view of their goal that causes everyone to be quiet for a moment.

I like what Fi wrote in her dispatch "...It was kind of strange to actually see it in the flesh. From here it looks massive, but with relatively gentle slopes when compared to some of the smaller mountains that have extremely steep sides. Everest almost looks peaceful - but with that cloud plume indicating high winds, I know that it would be anything but peaceful up there today."

The Base Camp Medical Clinic team has also arrived in Nepal and will be providing medial care once again this year. They started this in 2003 and proved an excellent service not only to the climbers but to all the Sherpas, porters and other team members that occupy the glacier for two months.

I spoke with Jeff Justman (JJ) as he was in LA. JJ is one of the lead guides for Mountain Link. He said he drove a rented van from Bend Oregon to Los Angles with 25 duffels of gear. He was about to get on the Thai flight to Bangkok.

Did we forget something?

Packing for a big climb like Everest is mind boggling. I remember as a kid going on family vacations where my Dad would struggle to get everything in the trunk of our Chevrolet Impala. Even though it was only four of us traveling by car to such "remote" places a Destin, Florida or Houston, Texas; we fretted over forgetting something. Traveling to Nepal or Tibet makes my memories pale in comparison of how to replace your climbing boots that fit perfectly or that favorite pair of gloves or down jacket. Yes, it is amazing what you can buy in Katmandu or Lhasa but fakes abound and the quality is often not the same. But most importantly is knowing what you have and know that the proper gear may save your life.

Maoist activity?

A disturbing news item from from Nepal News reports that Maoist abducted two polish climbers near Lukla. This is significant in that the Maoists normally leave Westerners alone and when any activity has happened it was further east. That said, in 2003 a climbing team was asked for "donations" as they headed towards Makalu which is about 14 miles west of Everest as the crow flies. Let's hope this is an isolated incident and they will be released unharmed soon.

**update** Reuters reports that the climbers have been released and are safe in Lukla. The Maoist deny kidnapping the Polish climbers.

A long season ahead

Remember that we are extremely early in the climbing season and only a few teams have made it Katmandu much less base camp. The normal summit date is between May 15 and May 30 - over six weeks from now. So settle in and enjoy the preambles as our explores head to the top of the world!

http://www.alanarnette.com

March 19, 2006

American Expeditions for 2006, Nepal unrest eases, Everest 2006 Climbing News

American Expeditions

Climbing.com has a nice overview of the major expeditions this year planned by Americans. One caught my attention was of a North Face sponsored team attempt that will attempt a traverse of the three summits of K7 in Pakistan. The members include Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, Peter Croft, Mark Synnott and Kevin Thaw. The TNF site has a little more info.

Nepal unrest eases

Several media reports have the Maoists relaxing their road blockade across Nepal. This just in time for the spring climbing and trekking season in the Everest region

Everest 2006 Climbing News Coverage

Starting this week, I will be posting regular updates to my Everest 2006 Climbing News page. Please visit that page for news of Everest climbs.

For EveryTrail, here is the repost:

All my bags are packed, I'm ready to go...

The training is over, the goodbyes are being said and of course, the duffels are packed. Most expeditions try to arrive in Nepal or Tibet around the 1st of April with a target summit date of May 15th - 30th. Several teams arrive this week including Paul and Fi Adler, MountainLink, British West Ridge. Blair Falahey is already there. 7summits arrives in Katmandu on April 10th and on and on.

The last week before leaving is a time of mixed emotions. Excitement rules the atmosphere but apprehensiveness in the underlying emotion. Not for the climbers but for those left behind. Most people think it is tough on the climbers but the reality is that the ones left behind now have nothing to do for the next two months but wait by the phone, check the email a hundred times a day and otherwise try to find a new answer to the ever-present question of "How do you do it?"

The farewell parties were held. Everyone drank a little too much and the tears flowed proudly as mothers and fathers, husbands and wives, children of all ages and special friends gathered to wish their intrepid explores all the best, God's speed, safe climbing and a thousand other expressions of love and support. Yes, it is tough but remember that they are going after a dream and that is the best wish of all.

Unique climbers this season

It seems that my expedition list is never complete so I invite any team that would like a mention to contact me. This is exactly what happened with SightonEverest.com when Milan Collin contacted me. Milan signs his name as "Climbing Cameraman/Producer/Filmmaker." The team website has some nice profiles of the principles hoping to get Thomas Weber to the top from the north side. Here is what they are all about according to the email from MIlan:

"I noticed that on the expeditions of this year, we're missing on the North side of Everest. Our project is called sightoneverest, and we're gonna lead 'Thomas Weber' who has a rear eye diseas to the top. The guide Harry Kikstra (owner of 7summits.com) and also 7 summiteer, is doing the expedition together with Alex (from 7summits-club Russia). We have our own website and filming the whole climb for a documentary. If Thomas is reaching the summits, he will be the first blind person summiting on the North side. With this climb we're giving attention to 2 charity projects in Nepal. One is called the Himalayan Cataract-project, wich is from a US doctor who bringing sight back to people who are blind for many years. Only by doing a small surgery as 20 dollars.The second one is called the SolarTuki project. Here people will get clean lights in there houses without inhalating all the deadly fumes.More details are on the website: http://sightoneverest.com , were we will also add pictures and footage during the climb as we're bringing also an editsuite up to basecamp. Harry is leaving on monday 20 march and we're (Kevin Augello and Milan Collin) 2 proffesional filmers, will leave from London on the 6th of april."

Another interesting story is that of Australian Christopher Harris. He is barely 15 years old and will attempt to be the youngest non-Sherpa to summit. He is also with the 7summits team. Chris and his father, Richard, are trying to make Chris the youngest person to climb the 7 summits and he has 4 at this point. You may recall that last year Danielle Fischer, 20, achieved that goal with her Everest summit. Temba Tsheri Sherpa is the youngest Sherpa to have climbed Everest, at age 16, in 2001. The Nepalese Government set a minimum age of 16 to climb Everest from Nepal after Temba's summit so Chris will go from the north side.

http://www.alanarnette.com


March 13, 2006

Controlling the Denali Crowds, Who Fooled Whom with Mary Woodbridge

Controlling the Denali Crowds

The US National Park Service has announced a limit of 1500 climbers per season on Mt. Mckinley starting in 2007. According to the statistics on the NPS site, Denali has seen a maximum of 1340 attempts so this will not be a problem in the short term. The real issue seems to be dealing with all the human waste and the pit toilets at the Basin Camp at 14,000'. According to Park Ranger Daryl Miller "... Normally, you would never see the pit toilet, dug 14 feet deep into the Kahiltna Glacier at the base camp, because it is devoured by the glacier ... That wasn't the case last year. For the first time, the pit toilet was visible in an August flyover of the glacier ... It melted away all the way down to 14 feet where we dug and it was sitting on top of the ice ...Now, we are concerned we may have to haul human waste off at 7,200 feet."

Who Fooled Whom with Mary Woodbridge

Swiss clothing maker Mammut pulled a fast one on the climbing community with their well executed spoof of the 85 year-old UK woman stating her intentions to climb Mt. Everest this season. Mary Woodbridge had a nice web site and posted her intentions on many climbing community sites including SummitPost.org. Her intentions were picked up by some news agencies but my favorite claim of indignation came from a climbing site that stated with impunity that the ploy ".. had finally been figured out by the press." I personally found it hilarious. Her site had pictures of her and her dog, Daisy, training and a guestbook full of encouragement. The last time I checked, she had over 70,000 visits to her site. Well done Mammut - the climbing community needs to stop taking itself so seriously.

http://www.alanarnette.com

March 06, 2006

Graves on Everest, A "Smart" Ben Nevis, Receding Glaciers and Insistent Guides, Ouray Ice

Graves on Everest?

CNN reports that Korean Han Wang-yong who has summited all 14 8000m peaks will lead a clean-up expedition to the South Col on Everest this year. Their goal is to bring down five tons of trash as well as make the summit. Han is a veteran not only of climbing but also on clean-up missions with previous trips to K2 and Manaslu and Everest. In addition to ripped tents and oxygen bottles, it is reported he will bring down bodies from the South Col. This may be a problem. I know many climbers who have made the mental commitment and have the understanding with their families that if they die on a big mountain they want their body to stay there. Also, Sherpas have traditionally refused to work with bodies for a variety of reasons. What Han is doing with the trash is excellent but leave the climbers in peace or give them a proper burial on the mountain.

A "smart" Ben Nevis

An article in the Scotsman.com caught my attention. It was describing the highest mountain in the UK, Ben Nevis in Scotland at 4406 feet. The article does an excellent job with a brief description of the Ben, the dangers and attractions. What caught my eye was when the author said "The Ben ... so different to France and climbing on the Continent, where even ice climbs are bolt and chain protected, and fitted for descent. Dumbed-down, made safe, sanitised, predictable - not on the Ben..." I must admit that I would love to climb the Ben. I have been to Scotland a few times and love the beauty of the country and the spirit of the people. But I am not sure saying that by making a mountain a tad bit safer to climb "dumbs it down" is fair to all the other mountains out there much harder and much more dangerous.

Receding Glaciers and Insistent Guides

I had a friend climb Kilimanjaro last month and a couple of items stood out. First was his pictures of the bare volcano - and they say global warming is not real! Second was his story about a 67 year-old man in his group who "... was completely confused. He did not realize that he had reached the crater rim. He saw "strange people with long noses" and he was impressed that "the path to Uhuru Peak had underground lighting.". This is bad enough but then my friend added "...it was clear to me that he was in trouble and I told the guides. At first, they wanted to still take him up to Uhuru Peak, so that he would have been on the highest point. I didn't think that was a good idea and told the guides what I thought. Then I gave them a literal translation of what he was saying. That convinced the guides that they had to take him down immediately." Once again, be very careful about your choice of guides.

Ouray Ice

My update is a little late this week since I was out ice climbing in Ouray Colorado. Given the warm temperatures lately, we were not sure what to expect but the ice was still fairly good and we had a great time primarily in South Park, the southern most portion of the Ouray Ice Park. I still find it amazing that there is no charge to climb on the man-made ice walls, especially given our two nights at the Victorian costs us only $20 a night! Ouray is an absolutely beautiful mountain town surround by awesome views. The Park is run by "Ice Farmers" and through money generated by Park visitors staying at hotels and eating at the great restaurants. The Ice Park is well maintained and one of the best places in the world to lean, master and show-off your ice climbing skills.

http://www.alanarnette.com