Hiddleston-Scaife Trust

Have you ever lost a friend to the mountains? On New Years day, 2003 I did. My guide on Ama Dablam and Everest died while doing what he loved. An avalanche took David Hiddleston on New Zealand's Mt. Tasman along with guide, Paul Scaife plus 2 other climbers. A Trust has been set up to honor David and Paul by their families and Aspiring Guides of New Zealand. In the words of David's father, John:

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Biological Brownies

Jean Lafaille continues his assault on Makalu. He is climbing it solo, no Os and in the winter just to make it challenging! Of course keeping your body full of energy is often the key to making a big climbs and Lafaille is no different. While being held back by the weather he comments on his eating habits: "... Every three hours, Jean-Christophe tried to eat in order to compensate the lost of energy.  He happily ate «Montagne Noire» dry salt meat, a great source of calories, and dry fruits biological brownies (about 30 rations empty sealed), a sweet treat." Hmm, maybe I will try "biological brownies" when I am in the Karakorum this summer. Maybe I will see more than the mountain!

Climber's love or Lover's climb?

Remember I mentioned the forum that Alpinist Magazine started a couple of months ago on their website. Well I visit it every few days too see what is new and if the premier climbing magazine has broken any new ground. Today I was not disappointed. Here is an excerpt for the latest thread "...I live in Grenoble, center French Alps and I am deadly passionate by mountains activities ... I am spending all my weekends in the mountains since the last 15 years... Here is the point : I am in love with a wonderful US girl for more than a year now ..." Well, they are certainly breaking new ground! Maybe they can syndicate their forum in Playboy?

Speaking of playing with bares

Borge Ousland is off on another adventure to the North Pole. He reports on his site of a close encounter. "... a polar bear! He broke the zipper with his foot trying to enter the tent, before turning around to explore their pulks." I think I would have lost my "pulk"!

Death on a 7 Summit

Aconcagua is know as one of the easier 7 Summits. You have all heard the spin: walk up, easy route, full services at base camp and more. But those who know, know better. It is a killer just like any other mountain. Aconcagua.com reports " ... Spanish mountaineer died today when just ten metres from the summit of the Aconcagua mountain, the highest peak in the Andes. 30 year old Borja Oviedo suffered a heart attack just short of the 6,962m high summit." This along with the three deaths on Kilimanjaro a few weeks ago should remind us all that there are no easy mountains.

Drama Down Under

The highest helicopter rescue ever in NZ took place on Mt. Cook over the weekend. A 23 year-old climber fell 1000' and was hanging unconscious on a ledge, according to news Scoop. Of course, Mt. Cook is New Zealand's highest mountain and very technical. While not too tall at 12,349, it is covered with glaciers and has very unpredictable weather. For a nice trip report visit Jason Halladay's trip report on SummitPost.com. Also take a look at his photos. They tell a great story.

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Everest in January? Well not actually climbing but the preparations are in full swing. Of note is the a much delayed Everest Peace Project run by Lance Trumbull. This team has members from Palestine, Israel, North America, India and South Africa. From their site "...celebrate our diversity and our differences, these events will focus on our commonality." Adventure Consultants looks to have a full team this year with only one spot open. Guy Cotter will be the "leader" on their expedition. I know from past experience that when Guy is there, things run much better so look for great things from this team. I also note that they are pre-announcing a price increase to $60K for their 2007 expedition.

Finally a very ambitious Everest event is coming from Tomas Olsson, a 29 year old Swede who will "...stand on the summit of Everest, take a deep breath in the thin air and point the skis toward Tibet and ski down the north face of Everest." Wow, Let's hope he fairs better than Yuichiro Miura's 1975 effort down the Lhotse face. He will be posting his progress on a new climbing site EveryTrail.net

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Flying South

The main activity around the world continues to be in South America. Lot's of activity on Aconcagua with multiple summits reported. Vinson has some activity as does the latest trend of skiing the last degree to the South Pole. Borge Ousland has been leading trips on the last degree to the North Pole for years but now it has caught on in Antarctica. Finally, there was the sad news of three climbers killed by a rock slide at 17,300' on Kilimanjaro. They were headed up a gully when they heard a crash and a wall of rocks falling on top of the team of 14.

Shifting Gears

I thought I would take a moment and mention some companies for climbing gear beyond the well known types. The Norwegian brand Norrona has some outstanding cold weather gear. If you are interested in what they use in Iceland, take a look at 66North. There is some interesting merino wool products from Icebreaker out of New Zealand. WildThings is a popular New England company with an interesting item in their half bag concept combined with a down jacket to reduce sleeping weight. If you are as obsessive as I am about weight, visit ProLite Gear where they focus on a variety of gear that is the some of the lightest in the industry. Finally, an old favorite is Feathered Friends but check out their online outlet for some great deals on down jackets. So much gear, so little money ...

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Happy New Year!

Another year and more climbing challenges await us all. While it is popular to make new year resolutions, I'll refrain and take refuge in the fact that 2006 will bring many opportunities for all of us to achieve difficult and rewarding experiences.

Youth Rules!

Two young climbers are making some news these days. First Climbing.com notes that 12 year-old Adam Ondra redpointed Alien Carnage (8c+/5.14c) at Castillon, France, according to www.nice-climb.com. Then the climbing accomplishments of 8 year-old Aidian Gold were widely reported over the New Years break. It seems that young Aidian has set off early to conquer the word's highest mountains along with his Dad. He has already climbed 10,400-foot Haustock and 13,400-foot Monch in the Alps, and 17,200-foot Awi Peak near Everest and went on to made it to Everest base camp. Island peak at 20,300 feet was his latest conquest. The reports spoke if him as "...a veteran mountaineer." It reminded me that a study was done on the imapact of Ed Viesturs' time above 8000m on the size of his brain. The results shown on a documentary showed some slight shrinkage. I wonder what this high altitude experiences does for a 8 year-old boy?

Body Disposal

Another popular report was about the burial of Muhammad Abdullah, an Malaysian who summited Everest in 1997. The issue was whether his burial was to be according to Muslim or Islam customs. A court finally ruled and he was buried in Islam style. This made me think of my first 8000m climb on Cho Oyu. I went with International Mountain Guides. Eric Simonson required every climber to sign a body disposal form". The choices were: 1) bury on the mountain, 2) cremate in Katmandu, or 3) return to your home. By the way, choices 2 and 3 are conditional upon being able to get your body off the mountain - highly unlikely in the vast majority of the cases. While Mr. Adbullah did not die on a mountain, unfortunately this year climbers will die pursuing their dreams. The IMG form was an excellent way of making sure everyone involved knew what they were getting into.

Southern Hemisphere and Himalayan Action

All the usual suspects are attacking Aconcagua this season. Dispatches are in full bloom from AAI and Adventure Consultants plus some others. Nothing of major importance to report other than the early heavy snows that closed the Vacus River approach have let up and it appears to be business as usual. AAI reports a January 2 summit. Also Kilimanjaro has the normal activity. Over in the Himalaya, Christophe Lafaille reports on his winter Makalu solo climb that he spent a night at 6900 m and has a high point of 7400 m on the 8481 m Hill.

Hopes for 2006

Ok, maybe a few resolutions for the new year. No deaths on Everest this Spring. A significant new route is opened on an 8000 mountain. Pakistan recovers from the continuing earthquake tragedy. And on a personal note, our Broad Peak - K2 expedition runs smoothly with everyone doing their best and retuning home friends!
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